Anyone try this? Did it help?
Rear 6-Piston Brake Caliper Kit M8 Softail, Black – ArlenNess

 

Help what? What's it going on? Pretty pricey for a rear brake.

 

I don't think it's a grip problem as much as it's a modulation issue with the ABS setup on these bikes. When I had my Dyna, I'd ride it back to back with my LRS and the rear brake feel, with stock everything was light years better on the Dyna. I've tried adj pedals, linkages different pads, rotors and they all do almost nothing. Wish it was feasible to delete the ABS without a bunch of other drama.

 

I've had a recurring problem with air in the rear brake line and subsequent loss of my rear brake. It's happened twice now, requiring the system to be bled. Thing is, I might go for weeks with no rear brake without noticing it because the rear brake on my '19 Heritage is so weak as to be nearly useless.

 

My bad sorry, 2020 Lowrider S. Rear brakes are known to be weak, mine seem like they are getting worse.

 

I improved my rear brake feel by doing the following 3 things:

1) Added a Greene Brothers adjustable linkage - Raised the stock pedal up. It made a minor difference
2) Added a cheap brake arm that allowed me to mount a skateboard wheel for a "pedal". This effectively raised the point of pressure even more than the stock pedal. It made a moderate difference
3) When I apply the rear brake, I do it with a heavy foot. - This made the most difference

You can try a larger caliper, but I doubt it will make a massive difference. Just my opinion.

Zach

 

I get it, it's weak... Mine was useless... I put mini boards on which made it way worse... Just no leverage, can't get pedal up enough, rested foot on it few times...

But then I converted to actual boards which gave me a touring brake pedal... And holy crap... Nope, there is plenty of caliper. I can lock up rear at will with zero effort.

I was using Lyndall organic pads, and just now replaced with EBC sintered.... That might be a mistake... bite harder, locks up even easier. I found the ABS wants to kick in pretty early, like not even skidding... However, trying to brake in pads hitting them hard, I was actually chirping the rear tire before the ABS kicked in... Which is how it should be. But I definitely have a useful rear brake.

Just seems to me it's all about leverage on rear MC and the stock peg/pedal doesn't have it. Also, getting a kick *** caliper only to have ABS to kick in easier isn't helping. As calipers go, you sure as heck don't need a 6 pot in the rear.

And not that this changes anything for either of us, but the wife just got a 25 Street Bob... Those rears good/useful day one. Pretty suprised. Still the same caliper. Just seems to be our older new softail with sub standard rears.

 

I raised my brake arm on my new LRS, it's more useful but it brakes not so much stronger, just a bit, perhaps it has to do with the master cylinder...

 

And others complain you can't raise pedal much... I raised mine plenty... The problem becomes it moves pivot out of perpendicular/straight push into MC.... So the angles are weaker. It's exactly where it needs to be from factory, set up for peg. I get the lever sort of needs to be placed where it is to be easy reach/pivot for foot on peg.... But it really needs to be a longer lever to have more leverage.

I really think that is most of the problem... The weaker setup of short lever, going to linkage compared to a floor board setup with much longer lever and much much stronger pivot point in frame mounts of board brackets...

Couple that with ABS that is a tad too aggressive... I like the fact the ABS is a soft release and that it doesn't upset anything... And I'm definitely no fan of high siding... But the rear wheel should actually lock up before it releases.

At the end of the day, you are only getting so much from rear. The actual caliper/rotor in the rear is plenty because mine can lock up with hardly any effort. And the most use is from scrubbing speed and trail braking, not actual strong deceleration... But ya, the stock set up on the early M8 softails barely gives that.

I suppose, if we pin point weak lever/linkage... Then stronger caliper or more power from master cylinder would help. Still seems the Ness 6 pot is pricey... But hey, what is a good rear brake worth? I would be more interested to see if you could find a Brembo master cylinder to replace... Maybe CVOs have... And then go braided lines/pads... You would think you would get great feel as well as power. 🤷

 

I think part of my problem is I have a S&S 2 into 1 pipe that required changing the brake pedal etc.