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  #11  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GLACIERPEARL
Class A amp , and price point are why I found it hard to imagine that anyone would recommend this......


No doubt it's probably a GREAT amp, but maybe not so much for an HD charging system, or the price point that most are after !
LOL. . . Only one way to find out GP. . . Hell, I'll buy one of the dam things and send it to NUTZ for testing. . . . Stay tuned.
 
  #12  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gannicus
LOL. . . Only one way to find out GP. . . Hell, I'll buy one of the dam things and send it to NUTZ for testing. . . . Stay tuned.
WAIT !!!

I might want to send him mine to test out. That way if he gives it a thumbs down, I won't be wasting all this time standing on my damn head to install it.
 
  #13  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtracin23
WAIT !!!

I might want to send him mine to test out. That way if he gives it a thumbs down, I won't be wasting all this time standing on my damn head to install it.
You got it Sir. . But knowing me I'll buy it anyway just for my own knowledge. I was going to buy the 4 channel since you already had the two channel.
 
  #14  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Gannicus
You got it Sir. . But knowing me I'll buy it anyway just for my own knowledge. I was going to buy the 4 channel since you already had the two channel.
That's OK. I've already contacted a friend who owns a machine shop about fabricating me a couple of brackets to mount the amp on under the HU on the inner fair support. Going to make two and sandwich them together with 1/4-1/2" spacers. Trying to create a gap between the two to serve as a bit of an insulator against heat transfer from the amp to the HU.
 
  #15  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:05 PM
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This is the left speaker pod. Right is identical in reverse. Didn't remove it as the GPS antenna is attached to it. Can not eliminate them as the brass insert (Pic 2) on each serve as mounting points for the windshield. Kind of a catch 22 situation since them serving as mounting points is a MUCH better set up than the dreaded expanding rubber grommets on previous RG models.

Whatta think about drilling a half dozen or so holes in each to serve as sources of air for speaker action.


 
  #16  
Old 11-29-2014, 05:50 PM
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OK. Got the template I laid out for my mounting bracket to the machine shop. He laid it out on the CAD and will cut in on the water jet when he gets a chance. I can't really complain if it takes him a while as the price is right......FREE. Old connections from racing days pay off occasionally.

Since I got that taken care of I thought I would go ahead and start running the wires from battery to the front.

Have some ?s.

I know you guys say to run the pwr wire on the opposite side of the wire tray away from the antenna wire. Does the same apply for the ground? Can the + and - be ran side by side in the wire tray?

Where can I purchase Molex connectors so that I can keep this install look as factory plug and play as possible? I know I can order the factory speaker jump harness (HD part# 69200752), but I am going to need two extra female Molex that that plugs into as I am going to use the two factory speaker feeds to run back to the amp.

The RF site recommended an install kit with 10ga wire with a 25 amp inline fuse for the T400X2ad yet the specs for the amp state a 60 amp fuse requirement. What gives here???

Thanx for all the help!
 

Last edited by dirtracin23; 12-02-2014 at 11:03 AM.
  #17  
Old 11-29-2014, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtracin23
OK. Got the template I laid out for my mounting bracket to the machine shop. He laid it out on the CAD and will cut in on the water jet when he gets a chance. I can't really complain if it takes him a while as the price is right......FREE. Old connections from racing days pay off occasionally.

Since I got that taken care of I thought I would go ahead and start running the wires from battery to the front.

Have some ?s.

I know you guys say to run the pwr wire on the opposite side the wire tray the antenna wire. Does the same apply for the ground? Can the + and - be ran side by side in the wire tray?
yes run both + and - on the same side away from the antenna wire.

Originally Posted by dirtracin23
Where can I purchase Molex connectors so that I can keep this install look as factory plug and play as possible? I know I can order the factory speaker jump harness (HD part# 69200752), but I am going to need two extra female Molex that that plugs into as I am going to use the two factory speaker feeds to run back to the amp.
NAMZ and Cycle Terminal is where I get all my stuff from. I'm sure there are others.

Originally Posted by dirtracin23
The RF site recommended an install kit with 10ga wire with a 25 amp inline fuse for the T400X2ad yet the specs for the amp state a 60 amp fuse requirement. What gives here???
I highly doubt that amp in the "motorcycle" configuration is going to draw anywhere near 25a let-alone 60a. In a bridged configuration driving subs in a car, yeah I can see that. Regardless, with that amp I would use 8ga and a 30A fuse at the battery. you always want your battery fuse to be smaller than that of your amp so it will blow first if there is an issue and will protect your bike's electrical system in addition to negating you having to pull the fairing off but instead simply pop the seat off to change a fuse.

Thanx for all the help![/QUOTE]
 

Last edited by UltraNutZ; 11-29-2014 at 07:44 PM.
  #18  
Old 11-29-2014, 06:59 PM
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[QUOTE=UltraNutZ;13457940]yes run both + and - on the same side away from the antenna wire.


NAMZ and Cycle Terminal is where I get all my stuff from. I'm sure there are others.


I highly doubt that amp in the "motorcycle" configuration is going to draw anywhere near 25a let-alone 60a. In a bridged configuration driving subs in a car, yeah I can see that. Regardless, with that amp I would use 8ga and a 30A fuse at the battery. you always want your battery fuse to be smaller than that of your amp so it will blow first if there is an issue and will protect your bike's electrical system in addition to negating you having to pull the fairing off but instead simply pop the seat off to change a fuse.

 

Last edited by UltraNutZ; 11-29-2014 at 07:44 PM.
  #19  
Old 11-29-2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
I highly doubt that amp in the "motorcycle" configuration is going to draw anywhere near 25a let-alone 60a. In a bridged configuration driving subs in a car, yeah I can see that. Regardless, with that amp I would use 8ga and a 30A fuse at the battery. you always want your battery fuse to be smaller than that of your amp so it will blow first if there is an issue which will negate you having to pull the fairing off but instead simply pop the seat off to change a fuse.
Well ****. I already purchased the RFK10 install kit based on the RF site recommendation and ran the wires from the front thru the wiring tray to the battery. Do you think that this will suffice? Or do I need to order an 8ga install kit. I paid over double for the RF kit vs a BOSS 8ga kit that Gannicus sent me link to just because using a genuine RF install kit gives me an extra year warranty on the amp, and that 10ga RF kit was a link directly from the amps page on RF website. Matter of fact, it only linked me to 2 different 10ga install kits.
 
  #20  
Old 11-29-2014, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtracin23
Well ****. I already purchased the RFK10 install kit based on the RF site recommendation and ran the wires from the front thru the wiring tray to the battery. Do you think that this will suffice? Or do I need to order an 8ga install kit. I paid over double for the RF kit vs a BOSS 8ga kit that Gannicus sent me link to just because using a genuine RF install kit gives me an extra year warranty on the amp, and that 10ga RF kit was a link directly from the amps page on RF website. Matter of fact, it only linked me to 2 different 10ga install kits.
you'll be fine bud..
 


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