BT - RCA inputs via PAC SNI-15 or SNI-35 line converters

RF - uses either.


Not sure what your bad experience with line level converters is but if you use quality components you won't have any issues.

Scosche or PAC are the only 2 I recommend. Both have 2 and 4 Channel versions available. Both have adjustable versions available.

Been using both since the 80s and nary an issue out of either of them.

 

I've bounced around and read much of this long thread. Noticed a few pages back my discussion of interest regarding the proper flash for the HU. I have a PBR300x2 installed front and back on my new 2015 RG w/saddlebag lids, and just had the dealer flash per the RF Advisory. Doesn't work as expected.

Rode home with no sound the other day, realizing with the HU amps turned off, the amp does not see enough power to turn them on without remote wire. Added remote wire last night to the front amp to see if it worked. Jumpered the rear manually for now. Amp will turn on with sound now. I am having the stuck fader problem though. Sometimes it starts with the fader button stuck 3/4 front fade and others with 3/4 rear fade, but I have no adjustment, it is like its locked up and HU not responding. I do have auto volume settings that adjust, but haven't been out to test that yet.

What is the correct flash to get the fader to work with aftermarket amps connected? Am I better to use remote wire or turn HU amps on for line level turn on?

I have the HU amps turned off now, and set to 8 speaker per RF, sounds great. Is the enhanced bass EQ that comes as stock tied to the amps on/off or the speaker selection? The tech told me there were no EQ adjustments he could do.

I had line level turn on but with the HU amps off I had to run the remote wire, just another wire to squeeze through a tiny hole in my saddlebag that I did not expect. Can I go back and have the amps turned on and still get the flat EQ curve (without that magic box thing) and fader control or best to just run remote wire.


I'm getting real close to getting this working 100%, sounds great too.

Thanks for any input. SC

 

unless your amps are wired improperly (which I doubt based on your verbiage above) then the fader issue is going to be a flash issue.

On the amps themselves there is a H/L adjustment **** (yellow in color). This is what determines how much voltage coming down the speaker inputs is required to turn the amp off and on. If you've adjusted that then you will need remote turn on trigger wires for both your amps.

as for the flash.. did you print out and bring the RF advisory with you or did you just tell the tech what to do? Most techs to this day still don't understand this whole flash thing and it's best to show them what RF states vs telling them.

AVC is yet another issue with these head units that HD hasn't figured out yet.

You don't mention the number of speakers you have installed only that you have lids. Fairing speakers is "assumed" at least by me so what else if anything do you have installed?

 

I have the fairing speakers, upgraded to the boom audio speakers. Added saddlebag lids with boom audio speakers also. Have a PBR300x2 mounted under the radio, and another mounted in the left rear saddlebag.

I think I solved the amp turn on with the remote wire, just haven't drilled another hole in the bag yet to get remote wire in. I was hoping I could use the line level inputs but when the flash turned off the HU amps, there is not enough voltage at the line to turn on the amps.

I think the HU amps is what triggers the factory bass EQ curve, which I do not want. Sounds like crap,at volume. Not sure though, if I can turn amps back on and the bass EQ is related to the speaker flash, this would eliminate the extra remote wire to the bags. Called RF and they recommended leaving the HU amps off.

I've read other people having issues with the fader, but I thought concensous was one of the 4 speaker options allowed the fader to work, not sure if it was with or without amps, but I still don't want the bass EQ curve. Just trying to confirm proper settings before pissing off the HDTech every day with a new flash request. First one cost me nothing. Don't want to waste his time or mine running back and forth.

Thanks for your input.

 

I did take the RF flash settings Advisory to the tech. He was a bit confused at first, said do you really want the amps turned off. Told him just what that says. When I had no sound on the way home, I called RF and they indicated they were aware of some issues and would be revising it.

 

I've been following this for awhile. What confuses me, among other things , is why does Harley include amps on and amps off in the flash if running with amps off is the best sound quality? Why even have that option? Are their amps something special or different?

 

Depends on how much cutting and trimming you want to do to make them fit. If you don't want to cut anything then not much will fit in the speaker lids.

 

I do believe he was referring to the rear tourpak pods.

I agree with Bill that you won't get a 6.5" HAT/BT speaker in there but there are plenty others that fit well and perform well. Infinity Kappa 6.5 with the included spacer ring would be one. Kicker CS67 is another.

 

Joe, what Focals are you running? Wondering what I have to do to fit the focal 165krc's to fit in the stock pods. Anyone else running these?

 

I believe that if you look back at post 842 in this thread SG1858 actually did get the BT 6.5's in the rear pods by using the adapters from Vtwin. I have already bought the adapters and I sure hope they work as I think the Titians would sound great in the rears! I am waiting on BT to get the 7.1 Pro issue worked out for the fairings so that I can figure everything out.