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2014 SGS stereo upgrade

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  #1  
Old 06-23-2014, 08:48 PM
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Default 2014 SGS stereo upgrade

After following this forum since January I have the following on order..

Infinity Kappa 62.11I
RF PBR300X2
Cycle Sounds Magic Box

Just want to make sure I am thinking correctly....and have all parts on hand and ready to go..

I have some 10ga. wire to go to the battery for positive and negative, ring connectors, I am going to make my own aluminum amp mount at work.

Since I am using the magic box I will need to run a remote turn on for the amp, correct? If so, where?

I will also need a short set of RCA cables to go from magic box to amp correct?

I also need an inline fuse holder, I think 30 amp, the style same as the main bike fuse?

I am going to try to mount the speakers inside the pods as a few other members have done...The screws won't poke thru towards the grills? Does it matter how the speaker is orientated in the pod or just whatever fits?

As far as the polarity on the bike speaker wire I am assuming the one with the black line is negative, correct?

I understand I will not have to go to the dealer for a radio flash, right?

Any tips for pulling the pods out?

Am I missing anything?

Also, A huge THANK YOU to the gurus in here and to everyone with a 2014 that has been trying to find a work-around for the DSP and other issues on these new bikes. This is my first bike with a stereo and it's great having tunes especially on the longer rides we take, but the stock audio needs some work. I have learned a TON from this forum and plan on staying a long time!
 
  #2  
Old 06-24-2014, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by HD_Doobie
After following this forum since January I have the following on order..

Infinity Kappa 62.11I
RF PBR300X2
Cycle Sounds Magic Box

Just want to make sure I am thinking correctly....and have all parts on hand and ready to go..

I have some 10ga. wire to go to the battery for positive and negative, ring connectors, I am going to make my own aluminum amp mount at work.

Since I am using the magic box I will need to run a remote turn on for the amp, correct? If so, where?

I will also need a short set of RCA cables to go from magic box to amp correct?

I also need an inline fuse holder, I think 30 amp, the style same as the main bike fuse?

I am going to try to mount the speakers inside the pods as a few other members have done...The screws won't poke thru towards the grills? Does it matter how the speaker is orientated in the pod or just whatever fits?

As far as the polarity on the bike speaker wire I am assuming the one with the black line is negative, correct?

I understand I will not have to go to the dealer for a radio flash, right?

Any tips for pulling the pods out?

Am I missing anything?

Also, A huge THANK YOU to the gurus in here and to everyone with a 2014 that has been trying to find a work-around for the DSP and other issues on these new bikes. This is my first bike with a stereo and it's great having tunes especially on the longer rides we take, but the stock audio needs some work. I have learned a TON from this forum and plan on staying a long time!
i have this same exact set up i will try to answer any and all questions and if you have trouble pm me and i can give you my phone number.

1. the hardest part about this whole process will be getting the pods out. if you have the right tools and you dont have large hands you should be fine. i used a wrench with an adjustable knuckle socket. once i loosened them up i was able to unscrew them with my hand (scrapped the **** out of my hand but got it done.
2. once pods are out i unscrewed them to seperate. the speakers will have to sit a certain way to fit.. play around with them and you will find the sweet spot. i used a washer when i screwed the speakers in.. the tips of the screws poked out the front of the pod but did not hit the grill (fairing fit perfectly after the install)
3. i did not use an amp mount i used velcro (do not have the expertese to build an amp mount)
4. i ran the remote wire to my cigarette lighter using a wire tap (tap into the purple wire)
5. rca cables come with the pbr 300x2 amp (hook up magic box to the rca input harness than plug that into amp
6. you do not need to have the bike flashed.

take your time and you will not have a problem. biggest PIA will be removing and installing the pods.

again if you have questions pm me
 
  #3  
Old 06-24-2014, 05:38 PM
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polarity of the bike wires is small connector is +
 
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:51 PM
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Thanks for the info... I think I need to get some speaker wire too (14 ga. good?) What about amp settings... Gain? Hertz? Looks like I should have it set for AP.
 
  #5  
Old 06-24-2014, 05:52 PM
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14ga is overkill.. 16ga is plenty for what you're doing.

I would start at AP and follow the sticky on how to set gains up top the audio forum. When in AP, the frequency is disabled. If you find you're distorting too easily, flip it to HP and set your FREQ at 80HZ.
 

Last edited by UltraNutZ; 06-24-2014 at 06:00 PM.
  #6  
Old 06-25-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
14ga is overkill.. 16ga is plenty for what you're doing.

I would start at AP and follow the sticky on how to set gains up top the audio forum. When in AP, the frequency is disabled. If you find you're distorting too easily, flip it to HP and set your FREQ at 80HZ.

what is the difference between HP & AP is one better than the other or is solely based on listening preference?

thanks
 
  #7  
Old 06-25-2014, 08:33 AM
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AP = All Pass = All frequencies pass through the amp and to the speakers
HP = High Pass = Only frequencies from the FREQ setting on up are allowed to pass through to the speakers. This effectively cuts out the low frequencies ie. bass
LP = Low Pass = Only the frequencies from the FREQ setting on down are allowed to pass through to the speakers. This effectively cuts out the high frequencies ie. mids and highs
 
  #8  
Old 07-01-2014, 07:16 PM
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I just finished my install and everything went fairly smoothly. Removing the pods was the worst part of the job. Now that I have the ratchet/socket/extension/adapter combo needed for each bolt I could do it in half the time.

After reinstalling the second pod I realized I forgot to put the foam around the pod to seal against the grill so I had to remove and reinstall...

It is definitely more clear and louder than stock, but it doesn't have the "WOW!" factor I was hoping for. With the bike not running I set the amp to AP and the gain to just under 9 (out of 11). Then we went for a ride. I could crank it up almost all the way (it was loud!) but it felt like it had more to go before distorting.

Came back home and set the gain to about 9.5 and turned the bass and treble down a couple notches and will try that for a while. The sound drops off after you start the bike and is louder for the couple seconds after you turn the bike off. I usually shut the bike off as I am coasting into the garage and you can really tell the difference. It did that with the stock system too, just not as defined.

Overall, I think it was well worth what I have invested. I probably shouldn't expect too much from 2 6.5" speakers on a motorcycle. Thanks UN, and njstreetglide!
 
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