Hey all, building a 2010 road king hot rod. Bikes got 16k on it with a stage 1 filter, fp3, and a V&H dual setup. Looking at an aero charger and I’m looking for engine mod recommendations. I have 94 octane at the pump and I might like to turn up the boost a bit. I’ve read about the lower end (welding and replacing the crank bearing) what about the top end? Better heads? More CI? Obviously go to forged pistons, probably stay 9.5 to 1 or so.

Also, I got a smoking deal on a BDL open primary so I’m going that route. Anyone know how strong the clutches are that come with that kit? I’m wondering what I need to do to beef that up as well.

 

Boost doesn't come cheap. You can run it on a stock bike for a little while, but you need to do a bottom up engine, transmission, drive to make it last a while. Even then it's not guarantee it will last long. I built my 2017 Breakout a year ago and now replacing a front piston and jug, but that's what you get for building a hot rod. But man it is sooo much fun! So here goes what was done, Factory stock 103, B motor. First thing is I decided to go to a 107" jugs, forged 10.25:1 Carillo Forged pistons, P3R 300 hp crankshaft, got rid of the balancers ( the chain drive for it wouldn't handle the HP.) Ported the stock heads 1.9 intake 1.7 exhaust, the rest of the heads are stock, S&S pushrods. semi solid lifters, 570 blower cam ( has very little overlap,dont want that much overlap with forced induction), 58mm intake, 8.6 injection, Thundermax ECU. The drive has modified Screaming eagle comp sprocket, chain primary, AIM lock up clutch,Baker 6 speed race transmission (N123456 shift), 24t and 54t chain drive. A B1 Procharger, which I run up to 14 lbs of boost that gives me 208hp and 169tq. The front piston and jug were casualties of a blown head gasket, and boost, which caused a real lean mixture mixed with boost. The rear cylinder didn't get damaged at all....ohhh well. I will have it back on the road as soon as the new piston and jugs get here. and tearing up the drag strip after the breakin. Good luck

main drive belt

41 years later and and I still love the FX's. This is my dream drag type bike with 208 hp and 169 tq blower motor, race transmission, and chain drive. Who needs a pace maker ????

208 Hp 169TQ 2017 Breakout

 

Building a hot rod with an FP3? I've never heard of that before...

 

Hdbigblue,
I am running 8 pound pulley on my 124 with Procharger and Thundermax.
Did you create your own map and auto tune from that point? I loved to see your AFR.
I still experience de-acel at certain rpms.

 

Mdanehart,
Yes the base tune was set on a dyno the I used autotune to do the rest. It takes a while to get it where it needs to be, so check the points analyzer and download to your ECM. I was auto tuning about every two weeks at first, but now I just check it, All I can tell you about the de-acel you are experiencing it run it in that area and download to the ECM. I use my laptop and the Thundermax app to see whats going on. Did you make a map for the boost in Thundermax? Mine is pretty much a linear line from " e low end of the map to the top. The Procharger has a DAS pully, and I often pull fourteen pounds of boost on the at the dragstip, on a 107" Drago Blower motor. Thundermax has been very responsive to any and all questions I have sent them, you may want to try that too.

 

Hdbigblue,
Thnaks.
The Thundermax was purchased from a well known engine builder and he installed the map. I am just beginning to learn the software and the features, so I am very novice and is auto tune feature all the time.
The Thundermax AFR Target is set at 13.8, according to Procharger that’s running lean.

 

Mdanehart,
That's good the builder set it up for you. I've been messing with mine for a year and it does have a long learning curve. I'm still learning all the time. You can send your ECM info to Thundermax to have them look at and recommend a different setting, they are very good at getting back to you.

 

Yes, he did.
I contacted Procharger and Was told that my AFR target was to low at 13.8 for supercharger application. I went into the AFR/@TPS CHARTS and slightly modified the tables from 4000+ to Hoover around 12.0 AFR, and maybe auto tune will modify my input. Still trying to understand auto tune.
I realize I am only scratching the surface of this ECM Capability, but already ‘seamed’ to feel a improvement from the previous ride.
I am beginning to realize the only accurate way to get a proper tune would be a qualified dynotuner familiar with Thundermax.

 

I must say that is the absolutely shittiest safety wire job I have ever witnessed . Neutral wired and loose...wire should be tight and positioned to always tighten the bolt.

Safety Wire Diagram

 

FYI for anybody who cares.
My Harley just returned from the tuner. We switched from Thundermax and now utilizing the stock ECM with Powervision and Powercommander.
With 10 pounds of boost were pushing 173 torque and 192 hp.
Me very impressed.