Thought Id take a few pictures of my clutch spring replacement. Decided to go ahead and take care of this before doing my cam upgrade. Fairly inexpensive & parts list as follows:

243 loctite - $10
SE Heavy Duty Clutch Spring - #37951-98 (ebay new) $20
Reused Primary gasket (no need to get a new one)
2x quarts of HD Forumla + Primary Oil ~$20

To start things right had my helper pose by the bike for extra points.





Started by warming things up, then leveled the bike & opened up the clutch inspection cover, took a picture of fluid level, then drained.



Next placed the bike on stand and opend the primary cover.



Took a few more pictues of the old clutch assm w/ spring




Having never opend the clutch assm up before thought Id investigate a bit and pulled the plates out. If you do this at all be very sure to understand there are small metal ring disks inbetween the clutch disk and they WILL drop down and not allow the clutch pack to seat all the way into the clutch basket. If this is the case simply pull all the clutch disks out (keeping them all orientated and start replacing them individually.) You will see that the metal rings must be aligned on the clutch hub and the composit disks align on the perimiter basket. Here are few pics that show the composit disk on the bike and the metal ring on the bench. So in the end you must be sure all the disks are clearly inside the rim of the clutch basket. Thats all.







And one more just to show the inside of the primary cover (2014).




All in all this is super simple, just takes a few tools.

On inspection I did notice the outside of my clutch basket had marks on it. Seems really odd to me, I purchased this bike brand new from dealer.

I cannt imagin this would be caused from the mfg but who knows?

So there is more, when I purchased the bike it wasnt imidiatly available. The owner has multiple dealerships and didnt have black at my local, so they had to pull from another store. So they told me this bike had a throttle cable problem & they had to replace it (and as such took a bit longer to get it to the store). Now that sticks in my head, I cant say one way or the other but seeing this makes me wonder.


Also there was nothing in the primary and Ive never had any debri in my oil pan and I always check fluids for color and material. (old habbit) And Im the only one who has serviced it.

Here are some pictures. Nothing major, but something marked it & in multiple locations.

Also in the below pictues you can see how the clutch plates all clearly sit inside the clutch basket when assembled.

 

Just wondering why you bought 2 quarts of primary fluid when there should be really no more than 3/4 quart (just touching the bottom of the basket.

Don't want you having problems engaging.

 

I pulled the primary cover on a 2004 LR and it took 42 ounces to touch the bottom of the basket...

I posed the question here and got many different responses and opinions. I asked the local HD service manager and he said it takes 32-38 ounces when the primary cover is pulled, and that all it needs is enough oil to keep the clutch wet so he just dumps a quart in and let it go.

I drained out 4 ounces so it now has 38.

 

No more than 3/4 of a quart of oil is plenty in the primary..... I guess if you have not experienced any problems then keep at it. Clutch just needs to be a bit wet, but it's mainly to keep the chain cool and lub the comp, if you have the new SE on the newer twin cam.

EDIT: make sure your bike is up right for the fluid measurement of the primary.

 

Just curious, how tight was your primary chain?

 

My HD SM has 32 oz wet and 40 oz dry, so after taking the primary cover off you will need a shade less than 40 oz. These HD numbers have worked for me to get the oil level to the bottom of the clutch basket.

To the OP: If you plan on keeping that stock tensioner then I would recommend the CompenSaver oiler from GMR Performance and never worry about your comp getting enough oil again.

 

Service manual says 32 wet & 40 dry. Wasn't completely dry so I put 36 in. The sm also warns about to much fluid will cause shifting problems difficulty finding neutral. I suppose the flip side is the compensator starting to have issues.

To the OP my understanding is the newer primary covers have the fluid director built in and the part you speak of isn't necessary. Unless I misunderstood that was changed in 2014.

Took it for a quick run around the block everything seemed good, no issues finding neutral etc. shift lever was say 10-15% harder to pull as a guess. Not bad at all.

 

So I did push on it but have no way to measure. Um it was taught but not tight? Maybe I should have inspected it closer but with so few miles didn't think of it much.

 

Did you mean to say clutch lever?

 

My bad... Yes clutch lever. That would be bad if it was the shifter. Thanks for pointing it out.