Break-In Procedure
So... New S&S crate motor, looking for opinions on break in. Seems as if there are two options out there...
S&S reccomends the 50, 500, 1000 mile interval break-in schedule. I've also read about a dyno break-in.
What are your thoughts? Thanks.
S&S reccomends the 50, 500, 1000 mile interval break-in schedule. I've also read about a dyno break-in.
What are your thoughts? Thanks.
Break it in like a ***** and it runs like a *****. Break it in hard and it will run hard.
My method 3rd or 4th gear 2000rpm-1500, 2500-2000, 3000-2500, 3500-3000, 4000-3500.....you get the idea, all the way to redline. Drive it nice for 10 minutes varying rpm's and repeat. Change the oil and ride normal, after that change oil at manufacture recomendations.
My method 3rd or 4th gear 2000rpm-1500, 2500-2000, 3000-2500, 3500-3000, 4000-3500.....you get the idea, all the way to redline. Drive it nice for 10 minutes varying rpm's and repeat. Change the oil and ride normal, after that change oil at manufacture recomendations.
If you break it in on the dyno the tune will be right, right from the get go. The rings are the only thing that needs breakikg in. If you read s&s break in instructions, it's almost impossible to follow. Keep it under 2500 without lugging?? How? I broke in on the dyno, then changed the oil. Changed the oil at 250 miles for the next 1000 miles then regular changes.
This is worth a read
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This is worth a read
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Might do an initial start up or two, not getting hot whatsoever, just making sure it is good to go - dyno break in. The dyno operator will get all the tables right from the get go to treat the engine right.
Moto tune/Baisley break in or the S&S is fine.
Nowadays, modern cylinders and rings seal so well that unless you do something really stupid (crazy AFR ratios, crazy high revs when cold, etc...) your motor will be fine.
My race bike big twin just gets a few heat cycles at increasingly high rpms, then it's good to run at 8,000 rpm.
Nowadays, modern cylinders and rings seal so well that unless you do something really stupid (crazy AFR ratios, crazy high revs when cold, etc...) your motor will be fine.
My race bike big twin just gets a few heat cycles at increasingly high rpms, then it's good to run at 8,000 rpm.
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I wonder how a street break-in per the moto tune page would work until I could get it to the dyno in a few weeks... It'd be cool to be able to ride it. Sooner is better than later if there is no advantage to the 50, 500, 1000 schedule (which IS almost impossible!)
For those of you recommending a dyno tune/break in and saying it'll be right from the get go, I have a question.
Doesn't the dyno operator /tuner have to run the bike up through the rpms and the throttle settings to get a baseline of where the bike is on the current tune before making changes?
Maybe I'm not understanding things, but it would seem that the bike would start the break in process with the previous tune on it and would run that way on the drum during most of the break in cycle, until the new parameters get pushed to the ecm.
Am I misunderstanding this?
Doesn't the dyno operator /tuner have to run the bike up through the rpms and the throttle settings to get a baseline of where the bike is on the current tune before making changes?
Maybe I'm not understanding things, but it would seem that the bike would start the break in process with the previous tune on it and would run that way on the drum during most of the break in cycle, until the new parameters get pushed to the ecm.
Am I misunderstanding this?
You spent a lot of money for that S&S!!!! I would follow S&S break in procedure! Ok so its hard to stay under 2500 rpms . But you can stay under 3000! Or you can do what motorman said on his web site!!! I'm sure he knows more about that S&S than the people who built it!!! And if anything does go wrong I'm sure he will send you a check...Its your money.....just my 2cts. swifty







