take a look at the Feuling 574, I had that installed along with the S&S 106 and a 2-into-1 and it was like a different bike... pulls real strong off the line without being hard to manage, i've passed a few vehicles like they're going backwards too.

I haul camping gear for days as well as rip around town, suited me perfectly.

 

Did you switch to gear drive or keep the chain set up? Did you switch oil pump springs.... Anything else?

 

chain drive still...

I think the oil pump spring was changed, and my mech suggested that we do the cam chain tensioners and tappets while we were in there as there was already a few miles on the ol'girl

 

Gear drive will require you to determine crank runout before investing. Max allowable is .0035". The likelyhood that your engine meets this is extremely low. Not entirely necessary either for the kind of riding you describe. JMHO.

 

Keep hearing horror stories of chain issues. I don't need those kind of worries.
S&S tech support said theirs is a drop in kit. Nothing else needed.
That and that I was offered a 510g kit for 499 shipped was the thing that got me motivated.
My bike is still new at 30k miles. Runs great. But I will putting some miles on her this year. And I don't want problems especially when I will be far from home.

 

on their website the 510s are described as:

"Designed as a bolt-in cam for 88, 95, and 96 CID engines with compression ratios below 9.7:1, it is primarily intended for use with stock, un-ported heads. 3000-5500 rpm. Bolt-in overall"

With the 106 kit you'll be up at 10:1 CR
And I could be wrong but 3000 RPM might be just a little high for passing power

 

Seems to me like you don't want to do headwork just big bore and cam. Also from what you're describing it seems like a nice Andrews 48 cam swap and maybe a gearing change would be plenty(30/70 or 30/68 combo). This way you can save some real coin and put a smile on your face every time your crack the whip. Good fuel tuner and 2:1 is the icing on the cake.

If you do go w/ an S&S 106 I would recommend their 585 cam or higher along w/ some headwork. I definitly wouldn't install that tiny 510 into your dyna.

EDIT:
On a stock crank I personally would never go gear drive.

 

Listen to what HD Bobber said. You can't install that gear drive cam without addressing your crank, and that's big, big $$$. The 'horror stories' of chain drive don't apply to late model bikes. I've been into my camchest numerous times and not once have I seen any cause for concern from my chain tensioners.

I ran an Andrews 48H cam and 30T power pulley until this winter and it has some serious get up and go.

 

[QUOTE=HD Bobber;14923349]Seems to me like you don't want to do headwork just big bore and cam. Also from what you're describing it seems like a nice Andrews 48 cam swap and maybe a gearing change would be plenty(30/70 or 30/68 combo). This way you can save some real coin and put a smile on your face every time your crack the whip. Good fuel tuner and 2:1 is the icing on the cake....

I have the Vance and Hines fuel pack on now. An Arlen Ness stage 1 air kit. Running short shots now, will be switching to a TBR or Thrasher or RSD stainless 2 into 1. Saving money is a huge plus.
Could I do the cams now and the 106 upgrade later? I would like to hold off on the 106 till about 100k miles, but I sure would like more low to mid power now.
In doing the gearing change would that still leave me a good cruising speed. On open roads I tend to cruise along at about 80 to 90 mph. Most of my life sadly, is spent daily riding through stop and go traffic in LA. But I will be making some 1k longer trips this year.

Thanks for the replies. Your info is not falling on deaf ears. I just want to ride this year and travel worry free.

 

08 96" with HD cast 103" pistons, RB Racing Black Hole 2-1 and S&S E-Z start chain drive 583's...the dyno don't lie and it's a dream to tour on. Period.