It seems to be a known problem on recent Fat Bobs - not sure about other Dynas. As someone posted above HD have moved to lower cost , no-name bearings.

I just replaced mine with higher quality SKF bearing when I changed my tyres at about 8k miles. The old ones were OK, but why take the chance?

 

For clarification...

The wider bearings which came OEM up through 2007 are also SINGLE Row bearings (contrary to popular belief by people who have never disassembled them), but of better design and by quality manufactures.

If you really interested in making your bearing situation better, you can convert your bike over to the 1" wider 2000-2007 bearings. But the dealer may not do it for you. Custom spacers, bored rear caliper bracket , and 2006-07 front / rear axles are required


You benefit by using a better bearing, but you would gain nothing between the two Timkens...205pp and W205pp are the same bearing design, just the races are made wider for different application requirements
.
.
.

 

I kinda thought that which is why I went with the regular 205PP. Doing the wider ones seemed more trouble than it was worth and unnecessary cost. I'm still wondering if I could get the hub sleeved on the damaged wheel otherwise I'm going to turn it into a shop stool or something... it's been sitting there for a while.

 

You could probably get it repaired, but depending on what wheel it is, it might not be cost effective

BER = Beyond Economical Repair

 

If you get the tools to do it yourself make darn sure you understand how to install the bearings properly. Front wheel it's left side of bike, as viewed sitting in seat, drives in first until fully seated, insert spacer, then right side until contacting spacer. The manual calls the first bearing side the 'primary side' which can be confusing since it's not referring to your primary drive side.

Rear wheel it's right side first (rotor side), the wheel has a machined lip for the bearing to seat against, then insert spacer, then pulley side bearing until touching spacer. I like to torque the bearings using the tool to about 20ft-lb. Letters/numbers facing out. If you have ABS there's some extra steps in there that you'd have to check with your manual on. Might even change the order the bearings are driven in. Again, check your manual.

Also the spacer needs to be longer than the length of the bore in the hub, I think I'm wording that right. .so the second bearing that gets driven in is able to seat against it. Should be fine if stock but doesn't hurt to double check while apart.

 

Good Read:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/wheel...ientation.html

 

FWIW the older wide bearings weren't double row, they just had better seals.. Got any laying around? Pry the seal off..