Thanks folks for letting me know I need to perform several auto tune runs to get a good tune - I was under the impression, "one and done". So now that the weather is better I'm going to do a couple more. I will just pull down the first (and only) auto tune and load that as my new base and run the second auto tune, correct? Then, if I do a third AT I'll use the second one as my base - just keep building off the previous AT file, correct?

I had the bike out this evening - it wasn't running well (lots of popping). I'm going to pull the air cleaner element tomorrow and see if it needs changing and begin the AT process above.

Thanks in advance for your input - Jay

 

Thats right, just keep autotuning your last AT session and build on it.

Rule of thumb, once the avg learned cells difference is approx 3% or less you are considered "done" with the AT process.

A dirty (or breather oil covered) filter will make a difference in how it runs for sure.

 

...thanks for that rule of thumb brasher. I'll watch for that!

 

Be sure you go "WFO" sustained so it'll learn your tune. Too many don't go WFO and the unit doesn't know what to do when they do.

 

Disregard

 

This is why you need dynamometer time to complete a tune as a large number of high TPS/high RPM settings are in the open loop portion of the AFR tables, this portion of the tuning has to be done with wide band o2 sensors to properly set the AFR tables and spark timing and other parameters when running in open loop. Your advice will fry an engine.

: Mike

 

How long would it take to fry said engine?

 

A WB swap isn't a normal part of the PV installation? I would never tune with a narrow band. They (NBs) are more accurate in the narrow stoic/epa window, but not suitable for performance tuning where AFRs are well outside the range the government says is safe for spotted owls and dung beetles.

 

The Delphi computer when tuned in closed loop with narrow band o2 sensors will cover about 90% of normal riding perfectly safe with limited excursions into open loop territory, I do not trust canned maps in open loop as safe for sustained hard riding at speed over 90 MPH in 100 degree temperatures with big throttle settings as you're trusting that the open loop calibrations are safe for your combination of parts under high load. A good tune by a experienced dyno guy will get you an engine that can be ridden hard and be reliable for years to come, the farther you get from the factory configuration the more important a good dyno tune is.

: Mike

 

I'm sorry, I searched the threads and he PV website. What exactly does this mean? That should be enough to get me started. I may kill a few dung beetles in the process, but oh well.