WFO = wide flippin' open; well, not quite you get the idea


This is one of the reasons I sit the PV on the bars and use the 'hits' screen found in the auto tune's 'datalog'; I can see the cells fill in. And I agree, you want to get in to those high percentage throttle openings and RPM's so the auto tuning process has a more accurate picture.

I can't disagree with the thought that as you move further from the factory configuration a dyno should be considered; as my engine transforms with heads and cams I will give it serious though, but as for now the auto tuning process has been very successful. I've done over 2 dozen runs and in each case, attempting to fill as many of the cells with red as possible, so there's been a few WFO moments when auto tuning

And to add: I do plan on adding the wide band sensors and the Target Tune; the more I've learned about EFI the more I see the wide bands are the correct way to go

 

Thanks (I think). Now I feel like an idiot! I do get the point. I'm only stage one and since I already have a PV I'm going to try this myself before going the dyno route. There is a highly recommended indi in our area that does very good dyno work. I may see him at some point.

I did buy a mount for the PV so I can watch it this time (and hopefully not rear end a truck).

Thanks again to everybody!

 

If you are going to do auto tune runs seeing the cells fill in is a great help; shows you what you're missing and you'll see that it doesn't take long at all to get the cells maxed out on data; no point in continuing the run; with the higher percentage throttle openings it fills in fast so you won't spent much time there either.

Nemosengineer and cggorman are correct, though; wide bands are the better choice. The more I've learned about EFI, the more I love old school carbs

 

I'm running on my 12th auto tune session. Already filled all 8 slots and started over again. The bike 2016 LRS runs worse than it did with stock factory tune. I have the power vision and custom tune from Fuel Moto. The PV screen said that the EM failed on the first four auto tunes. Removed the PV cable and ran it across the gas tank to avoid any possible voltage interruptions this did eliminate the failed EM warning sign and still after 8 more auto tune sessions the bike runs poorly, vibrates at 2500-3000 rpm and pops a lot on gear down. Even after the 8 additional auto tunes the 8th one still had a very large percentage of red cells. PV in my opinion does not give good enough instructions for the device function and use. I am starting to think that the problems I am having might/could be because of the key fob ignition. I did talk with FM but to no progress. I did ask them what the red button was for. This all might just be a fluke with my PV or my ability to operate it properly however it is becoming irritating.


I hope your auto tuning goes better than mine. Mike

 

I am not a PV expert, my first auto tuning runs were so poor and I was so deeply regretting ever buying an EFI HD she was almost traded off for some older carbed iron.

I didn't know how accurate this was but I read that if you shut down the bike with the kill switch, stopped the auto tune run, and saved it to a slot in custom tunes before you shut off the ignition they were more accurate. I did try it and my runs started to show improvement; I guess it worked.

Obviously with your bike you can't hit the kill switch; could you try stopping the auto tune run, saving it to custom tunes before you shut down the bike? Might be worth a try, anyway.

These new-fangled bikes are the debbl

 

What is the rule for resetting the fuel trim when it asks? I got a canned map from fuel moto and dynojet and those work great. Tried to do autotune, but when I start up after enabling, it runs like crap...

 

During the auto tune run the bike will run like crap; normal behavior during a run. Be sure the bike is fully warmed up before you begin an auto tune run; if it's possible watch the cells and end the run when you've got as many of the cells as possible red; they're done collecting data for that run.

I reset the adaptive tables when I apply a new map....

 

OK, Tin Cup, I'll give that a try and report back. Mike

 

Cool! I simply cannot tell you why it worked, but it was when I overwrote all my crappy auto tune runs and started doing the kill switch/electrics hot stopping and saving of the auto tune runs when I finally began to get results; from there I've continued to follow that pattern building on each run. My current map is run #26 or #27.

It took me a couple of months to start to bond with this '13; now, I'd never consider selling her. It was a bit sporty at first, but the results have made me smile.

Do your runs with the bike already fully warmed up; don't focus on miles but rather maxing out the data on each run; save the run in whatever pattern works best with your FOB'd bike. It takes a few runs but the gains are there and the improvements are worth the effort