Last time I pulled the primary I noticed the transmission side of the clutch hub spline teeth were damaged. Didn't find large metal fragments or damage on the shaft. I (maybe foolishly) re-installed the hub....

Looks like this is a somewhat common problem on early (2007) HD clutch hubs. I'm pulling the primary again to replace my compensator. Looking into replacing the hub and bearing. Should I order the clutch hub that comes on the newer dynas (37554-11) assuming the problem has been fixed? Has anyone done this and replaced with aftermarket?

Not looking to replace the clutch assembly, just the damaged hub. Bike is 2007 FXDB with 20k miles, stage 1 96 CI engine.

Thanks for the help.

 

May work with the newer hub but just know that the clutch bearing changed in 2011 - the bearing is thinner, will need this along with the new hub.

If you ride the bike hard, may want to consider a better clutch, would be an excellent time.
I'm using the Bandit Sportsman. Here's my Thread on primary upgrade:


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...rade-time.html

 

I would replace with the proper bearing as well. I assume the updated hub would be compatible as it has the same base part number ending in -11. The part listed for the 2007 ends in -06A.

Any idea if this assumption is correct? I don't think I can spring for the aftermarket church right now. Just trying to get everything back up to snuff.

 

This happened all across the twin cam engine series from dynas to touring. The suspected main culprit is the stock ratcheting chain tensioner, getting too tight. Main cause for that is hard acceleration... like nobody does that

I went in to mine couple years ago to replace the stator and noticed the first about 3/8 to 1/2 of splines were broken off. Pretty common.

I replaced with a stock clutch hub, and installed a Hayden primary chain tensioner. Baker would work as well... just about anything is better than the stock one.

 

While I don't think the stock chain tensioner is the best design, I don't think that's the cause for the clutch hub spline damage. The fact that the spline shaft it mates with has no damage leads me to believe the hub was made with crap metal or bad post machine heat treat.

Also, the stock tensioner does give a small amount under load. Lots of youtube videos comparing the various tensioner options. I'm hoping the latest clutch hub splines have been hardened properly since the batch that went into the early twin cams.

 

Okay.. but FYI the 07 is not an early twin cam, and the results I researched covered 3-4 years of bikes. Although I will admit that it's not conclusive by any means... and the fact that only ~1/2" of the splines on the transmission side fractured... perhaps getting tempered too hard and becoming brittle... maybe that was the side closest to the heat source...

 

I would say that assumption is incorrect but still does not mean it will not work.
Normally the only part you want to use is an exact # match but it may be updated with a newer, higher, letter. In this case the only difference may be that it requires the newer bearing and thus the different number of 11 but I am not sure that is the only difference....maybe somebody else will chime in.

I will add some more comfort: the Bandit clutch hub I used is made for 2007 and up. What it had was 2 different grooves for the 2 different bearings(pre 2011 and post 2011)) so that is why I think you are good.

 

Confirmed... clutch hub teeth are destroyed. Main shaft looks ok. IPB and race look ok. Primary chain tensioner shoe has some wear. Stator looks good, although insulation has turned black from the primary oil. Worth changing the tensioner due to shoe wear?

As of now I'll be ordering a new clutch hub and bearing. Will likely have the local indy press the old off and install the new hub and bearing. Anything else I should look into while I've got the primary open? I don't expect to have my new SE comp from surdyke for the next week or so.

 

If you want to lower your gearing, it would be a great time to swap the transmission pulley out to a 30T. If you decide to upgrade the tensioner, I recommend the Baker - had the Hayden first....now I am happy with the Baker.

Starter teeth look like they have been scraping - on the inner primary?

 

Nothing on the inner primary... maybe starter engagement?