Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I have a Switchback and would like to upgrade the brakes. The bike does not have ABS. Everything is still stock as far as brakes and the bike has 15+k miles. I had a passenger on the bike recently and found the stopping ability of the bike was being tested. I looked at the Arlen Ness rotor/kit, but it won't fit the Switchback. I've thought about doing dual disks up front, but the FLD has 41mm forks and I know of no HD with 41mm forks with dual disk brakes.
Then pair it up with a caliper off a modern Japanese sport bike. Pretty sure its 108mm bolt spacing. You can use tokico off Suzuki, i believe Brembo off the newer Suzukis, Caliper off the Yamaha R6 (it's what I'm using.), Stuff off kawasaki or honda as long as it's radial mount and 108mm bolt spacing. Most of the calipers can be had pretty cheep.
Toss in a good set of pads. I like vesrah.
That should give you some good stopping power.
If you want to go the next step like I did then replace the master cylinder with a good quality radial master cylinder. I used a Brembo 15RCS. When bled right you get a nice firm lever. The only catch with this is if you have the canbus system on your bike you will need to make a new switch for the brake lights. A bit of a pain but I felt it was worth it.
If you're going that far might as well replace the brake line too. I made my own but you can easily get a good quality braided line.
Upgrade your pads, apply both brakes, practice....
Stock brakes are capable of locking both wheels. Most folks aren't applying nearly as much pressure as they think. Find and empty parking lot, practice until you start locking your front at the last few feet of your stop. You'll be surprised at how much force you can apply before reaching that point. The rear brake does most of the work until weight is shifted forward.
Guys spend a lot of money upgrading brakes on street machines. Unless you are building enough heat to experience brake fade, most of the upgrades are probably not warranted. Pads and braided lines are about all you need.
I agree with everyone above, but... what you personally do depends on (i) how significant your braking issue is, and (ii) what resources (ie money!) you are prepared to throw at it.
In my case (only mine), I have a 2011 SB everyday ride (ie my only transport), on which I installed a single Ness Big Brake disc, and EBC HH pads. That setup's fine for me.
Bt if you have more/less money, a twistier throttle, a gnarlier canyon in your neighborhood, or a minor-deathwish, you should make different decisions.
Huge difference in good brake vs HD brakes. Locking brakes doesn't equal to good braking. And HD does just that - goes from no brakes to locked. I hate such brakes on cars as well and prefer brakes that you can feel and modulate. Upgrade to radials and good rotors is tremendous upgrade. I have Sporty S where I did lines & pads only, and I though it's great. Until I finished my upgrade - holy ****, it's so much better - and note that sportster is much lighter then Dyna.
Originally Posted by WMX124
Upgrade your pads, apply both brakes, practice....
Stock brakes are capable of locking both wheels. Most folks aren't applying nearly as much pressure as they think. Find and empty parking lot, practice until you start locking your front at the last few feet of your stop. You'll be surprised at how much force you can apply before reaching that point. The rear brake does most of the work until weight is shifted forward.
Guys spend a lot of money upgrading brakes on street machines. Unless you are building enough heat to experience brake fade, most of the upgrades are probably not warranted. Pads and braided lines are about all you need.
Then pair it up with a caliper off a modern Japanese sport bike. Pretty sure its 108mm bolt spacing. You can use tokico off Suzuki, i believe Brembo off the newer Suzukis, Caliper off the Yamaha R6 (it's what I'm using.), Stuff off kawasaki or honda as long as it's radial mount and 108mm bolt spacing. Most of the calipers can be had pretty cheep.
Toss in a good set of pads. I like vesrah.
That should give you some good stopping power.
If you want to go the next step like I did then replace the master cylinder with a good quality radial master cylinder. I used a Brembo 15RCS. When bled right you get a nice firm lever. The only catch with this is if you have the canbus system on your bike you will need to make a new switch for the brake lights. A bit of a pain but I felt it was worth it.
If you're going that far might as well replace the brake line too. I made my own but you can easily get a good quality braided line.
The upside of practicing locking up the front is the extra experience you'll get on picking up your bike.
Change/flush the brake fluid (DOT4), replace the pads with Ferodo, Galfer or EBS, use good braided lines, rebuild caliper if needed, make sure the rotor is clean, bleed, bleed, bleed. No problem stopping a heavy Fatboy from speed.
OK, locking the front is a bit extreme. My point is, if you practice heavy braking in a controlled space you will find that there's a lot left in your brakes than what you're typically applying on the street.
For sure. Practice panic stops. I fishtailed from 90 - was fun, probably if I practiced more wouldn't happen. I like responsive brakes, but different people have different preferences.
Everything on HD is functional - just not the best. That's why we customize to our preference, whatever it might be
Originally Posted by WMX124
OK, locking the front is a bit extreme. My point is, if you practice heavy braking in a controlled space you will find that there's a lot left in your brakes than what you're typically applying on the street.
08-09-2017, 07:07 AM
Best way to upgrade brakes
, you should make different decisions.
