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Howzit everyone. I have a misfire problem that I need to take a look at that I hope someone can help. I have a 2004 DynaWG that has an intermittent firing problem. I’ll start off by telling you this is my fathers bike and has had some mods done to it. He had had the engine rebuilt to in his words “to keep up with the sportsters”, which is now a 100ci engine. I really don’t know the specs of it, but it also has a PowerCommanderIII which I assume is an emulator of sorts. So I’ll get down and tell ya what happened before my bike took a crap. I used to ride it about every other weekend. One of my wife’s acquaintances stopped by one day on his Harley (now discontinued nightster) which was all mad maxed out all the way down to the visible duct tape holding I can’t remember what on. But he started telling me nice bike, we need to go riding and what not, and I explained the batter needed to be charged because I never located my trickle charger while unpacking after moving to this god forsaken place. He responds ho brah, nonprob, I’m a master mechanic and we be cruzin in a short. So I hook up the battery charger and told him it let charge for a bit and we’ll try and crank her up. My charger has 3 settings for battery type and 3 for battery size. I set it for agm type and small size. I leave the garage for a couple minutes and come back he’s got another one of my battery chargers combined with the one I had and both on the start function. I think the start function is really intended for cars....when I saw what he was doing I said wtf! Then I look at the bike and it’s like steaming or smoking and I said again, wtf? Needless to say it cranked right up. And he’s like let’s cruz. So we’re riding down a straightaway and opens it up then I open mine up and we’re going maybe 105-110 when my bike starts cutting out. Seems like I’m getting an intermittent spark to one of my cylinders. Now I need some guidance going thru systematically each system to find out what burnt. Can someone please help me?
Ok pulled codes and cleared. This is what I had....
P no rsp
S b0563, b1141
SP b1006, b1007
T no rsp
I still get the engine checklite on but it does go off. I don’t know how to pull a historic code. The no rsp I’m assuming is no response and I’ll also assume I get that for P because of the DynoJet power commander. If this should not be the case please let me know. All codes shoes clear after restart, but still have the check engine light that comes on then back off after it’s running. Mahalo for any help
It sounds like you might have an issue with your voltage regulator. Your reading high voltage at one point and an open ignition at another. It seem like your regulator may not be keeping proper voltages.
Did it go away when you slowed down? Does it do it if you're going slower but have the RPMs up?
Did the steam/smoke have a smell to it?
If you have one cylinder cutting in and out, start by checking the spark plug wires and the sparkplugs. It's possible the issue you had is a separate problem.
Do a quick wire check, but if something is exposed you'd have a more constant problem, unless it needs a little heat to cause it, might disconnect the battery while you poke around for a burnt wire.
When electrical wire burns it tends to be a lot of smoke, like Vaping (yeah I cringed when I said that...), and it has a distinct smell to it. If you're not sure on the smell get a scrap piece of wire and burn it.
Sounds like your battery was charged harder than it should have been, I'd check the volts on that thing too. Overcharging one also makes for a nice smell, but usually results in it leaking battery acid out and smells like really rotten eggs, least when I did it, lol. I had a voltage regulator go out on my first bike and it started to stink when I was at a stop and ended up frying the battery, happened pretty quick.
I'd look at your power commander too, tuners can get fried like anything else and if they go bad they're in a position to control everything on the engine.
Lastly, don't let your wife’s acquaintance anywhere near your bike. Anyone who thinks duct tape is a good solution on bike they own will care even less about yours. And anyone who is a master mechanic never says he's a master mechanic and would have known better.
Others will be along shortly with better ideas on what to check.
Last edited by CaptainAwesome; Mar 6, 2018 at 04:41 PM.
Thanks for all the responses. Yea that dude isn’t allowed to come through the gate lol. I went ahead and took the power commander off and ran it and sounded better...not like it did, but I attribute that to probably the fuel tube working good with the cam setup that was installed...hoping anyways. I have yet to take it out on the rd as we are in a monsoon season here and it hasn’t stopped raining for three weeks now...I want to put the bike through a workout with acceleration and top end as this is where it failed the first time. Maybe tomorrow there will be a couple of hours of sun to get out and ride...I hope
i am also wondering if the power commander itself is busy or the programming. I don’t have a lot of experience with these. On my Bette I would just have the chip re-flashed but, there again, that’s the limit of my experience with emulators
Ok so I’ve replaced the battery, have between 14v-14.3v going back to the battery at idle. I’ve completely taken out the power commander I hope unless there is something I missed. I should have risen today but 1 cylinder was cutting out again before I even put the seat back on. Other than rigging up a spark plug and grounding it to the bike and watching the spark, I’m starting to run out of things to check. So is there a sure fire way of checking the coils on these bikes? What else can I check? I don’t want to have to cart this bike all the way to the HD dealership which is a good 2-3 hr trek to other side of the island.
Well, it's not rocket science.
Running an 04, 5 speed bike at 105+,, is going to do some goofey stuff to the engine. (period)
I would suspect that it wasn't really mis-firing at that point but more than likley just reached a point where the valves where floating, fuel was not the best, air cleaner dirty, carb dirty, and/or any combination of several things that would make "fathers bike" not keep up with "mad maxed out all the way down to the visible duct tape" biker guy.(?)
Now, you've torn into it, bending twisting the 04 wire harness,, removing the offending PC3,, without knowing what's been done to the carb,,
,, all the while "duct tape guy" is giving you advice on the side.
Well, you've gone a far way now. We can't help you,, on-line,, un-seen,, with only the one option of hearing your trouble as it's presented.
You gotta break it all down now. Square One. Start from bike needs spark, move to bike needs fuel, then make sure each thing the engine needs is what it's getting.
Make sense?
p.s. Did it occur to you that you could connect to the PC3 (while installed) with a lap top and a usb cable?
Is bike carbed or EFI? If EFI it's a real early system, basically just injectors and electronic ignition. Not like on today's machines. The plug wires could be breaking down. Some fatter ones wouldn't hurt. Check all your ignition connections for any corrosion and clean them. Contact cleaner on the ECM connection wouldn't hurt.
sorry guys been super busy at work and haven’t had the time to properly sit down again and start testing. I was informed incorrectly as to the year. I found out it was a 2005 after running the VIN. Yes it is efi. As stated above all I have done is remove the PC3 with no change in problem. And yes I thought about leaving it connected but I have no working laptop to connect it, so just to eliminate the possibility of it being the PC3 I just disconnected it. So I still have the problem.
I need some guidance...
