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Compensator clunking.

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Old Jul 7, 2018 | 10:56 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by skid_pimp
how many miles on your bike? It could well just be the starter clutch. If it is indeed the compensator it is likely not actually bad, and simply needs to be shimmed to tighten the spring tension up, per the sb.
43,XXX miles. The bike still starts normal.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2018 | 10:57 PM
  #12  
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Got 15,000 miles on a Baker...and still going;g well.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2018 | 11:17 PM
  #13  
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HD website says that the screaming eagle compensator is original equipment on 2014-2017. Would replacing it with the same part be a bad idea? It's lasted 43k miles with no problems.

 
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Old Jul 8, 2018 | 01:22 AM
  #14  
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Do not buy a BDL compensator!!!

Baker have a very good reputation, but pricey.....
 

Last edited by Krazy8s; Jul 8, 2018 at 01:24 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2018 | 06:10 AM
  #15  
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I would replace it with the SE compensator, buy it from surdyke ($337).

The compensator on my 07 went bad at 20k. I replaced it with the SE unit and a starter clutch at the same time. Nothing wrong with replacing it with the same P/N.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2018 | 07:03 AM
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I went through 3 standard 1 SE and finally last year @ 95000 I put a Baker compensator and a new Barnett clutch, I left my Hayden tensioner in there... never ran better.
Did this after I swapped for a 103HO..
 
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Old Jul 9, 2018 | 08:40 AM
  #17  
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I'll be doing a Baker comp some time in the future- installed a SE comp in 2009, it's still functioning. I installed the Baker chain adjuster a couple of weekends ago, and the bike has never shifted smoother. Removed my Hayden tensioner.

If you're going to run sprocket only, I'd have the crank tru'd, balanced and welded.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 09:34 AM
  #18  
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The compensator is a shock absorber for the drive train. With a big twin engine, the cylinder power strokes occur farther apart and with greater force than a 4 or 6 cylinder engine of the same displacement. These strong engine "hits" can cause havoc for the drive sprockets, chain and transmission. Even my old 74 CID FXS Shovelhead has a factory compensator.

Most of these are a spring-loaded front drive sprocket attachment to the engine crank output shaft. The compensator allows the crankshaft to move slightly against the front drive sprocket that pulls the primary chain to the clutch basket and transmission. It absorbs some of that abrupt force of the individual cylinder firings.

H-D has developed a series of compensators over the years to accommodate the increased power output of ever-increasing engine displacements. The latest Screamin Eagle (SE) compensator for the Twin Cams is the factory's most robust design that they used with the biggest Twin Cams before advent of the M8 engine.

Several aftermarket companies also offer compensators apparently of superb quality. However, they can be very expensive.

The life of a compensator is affected by engine size, power, and riding style. Proper lubrication is also a factor in compensator service. They reside in the primary chain case and rely upon the oil bath therein for lubrication of their moving parts. The latest H-D SE unit comes with added channeling fins that are glued to the inside of the primary cover to better channel oil to the compensator. The Baker unit even has special holes in the compensator body to help direct oil into the compensator mechanism.

Basically, if your compensator isn't making a racket of noise, you probably are fine for now. When they develop wear, you'll hear a rather loud clacking sound often on start-up.

My old Shovel is soldiering on with many miles using its original compensator. I also have a moderately hopped-up Super Glide 103 that is all good with about 25k miles on it. A replacement SE compensator resides lonesomely on a shelf in my shop until needed. I plan to go ahead and change it out when I have the chance.
 

Last edited by leafman60; Jul 10, 2018 at 09:37 AM.
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 08:16 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Simplespeed
My 2014 FXDB has started making a clunk at idle on cold starts in the compensator area. Going to replace it soon along with tensioner. Havent even pulled it apart yet to know what type I have. Any recomendations on which one to go with? Just spent a bunch on the bike and really trying to keep costs down right now. Thanks.

check your run-out, buy a solid sprocket and forget about it.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 09:31 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by brownie4412
check your run-out, buy a solid sprocket and forget about it.
It is hard to convince people they dont need the junk.
 
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