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So, here's what I did. Instead of duck walking my bike down the driveway between the cars - like I should have - I decided to slowly cruise down the middle of the driveway.
I was going pretty slow and it looked like I had plenty of room. This is why I don't lane split - because I'm not experienced enough to get down my 20 foot driveway without bouncing off $50k worth of vehicles.
Anyway, as you can see from the giant photo, the front left tire on the civic (on the left side of the picture) is turned out just enough that I hit it with my left highway bar. That made me bounce off the tire and hit the bottom of the door of the Volvo (right side of the picture) with my right highway bar and the side-view mirror with my right handlebar.
At the time, I had no idea that I hit the civic. I thought I just hit the Volvo. Until I got halfway down my street and tried to shift up into second gear. The toe of my boot is now hitting the left highway bar. Also when I rest my feet on the foot-rest when riding, my feet are not equal distant - my left foot is noticeably closer than my right.
The bike rides fine - did just under 200 miles today - and I couldn't tell a difference in the ride. Except when I shifted and my toe hit the highway bar. I highly doubt the frame is bent at the tab because I was going so slow when it happened.
So...I've done some reading and saw a couple of methods for bending crash bars back into place. What is your tried and true method? I've tried pushing on it with my foot while seated on the bike but I consistently skip leg day...
I guess after having to pay for the bodywork for the car(s), you don’t want to simply buy a new bar? I wouldn’t risk the frame any more then you already have, by trying to bend it in place.
I don't know if I agree with this but here it is. I was at the dealership years ago when this guy came in with a new bike. He disappeared inside an quickly came back out with the head mechanic, evidently a friend as well.
The mechanic looked at the bike and I heard him say: as long as it's not "kinked" you can straighten it. I can't do it for liability reasons, but you can and it won't hurt a thing. So, that's all I got. I doesn't take much to bend these things. Are they made of lighter material now than they were years ago, who knows?? Low and slow is all they are much good for. Me, I would replace it, but that's up to you. Good luck.
Last edited by Bass Player; May 3, 2020 at 09:46 AM.
I guess after having to pay for the bodywork for the car(s), you don’t want to simply buy a new bar? I wouldn’t risk the frame any more then you already have, by trying to bend it in place.
Point taken. I kinda like money and don’t want to spend more on a bent frame. I also don’t want to spend $400 on something that can be fixed with a tie-down and a pry bar.
Point taken. I kinda like money and don’t want to spend more on a bent frame. I also don’t want to spend $400 on something that can be fixed with a tie-down and a pry bar.
There’s bars out there for like $200. Id just shell out for a new one. No point in risking or compromising structural integrity for a few dollars. If you truly want to save your leg or foot one day, I wouldn’t bet on an engine guard that’s been bent and bent back.
They should be the weakest link. If they were as strong as, or stronger than, the frame you might have bent the frame. I’d spend the $ to replace it for peace of mind.
If its just the highway bar tab hammer it straight I just did that about an hour ago on a mustache bar with a bent tab. We both know buying a new would be the best idea but only if you dont mind spending the cash if you are like me and it sounds like in this instance you are just hammer it out I laid mine on the back of an 35lb iron plate for weight lifting and hammered the big bends but that wont get it where u want it, Ifine tuned it by wedging it between my legs and swift wacks till it looked straight..and like Trigeezer pointed out if it does weaken the tab a bit thats ok as if something happens again it will bend long before the frame, but it should hold up on a tip over and still give protection.
When you can get another crash bar for less than $100, and probably closer to $80, I might be inclined to replace it.
Is is bent back toward the back end of the bike, or bent or in or out from the engine? That could make a difference. I suspect it's just pushed back a bit.
Like you, though, I'm a cheapskate, and would probably just bend it. Take it slow and easy, though. Move it a little at a time until it's even, and you should be fine.