Adjustable pushrod question
A coworkers brother did a cam swap on his ‘10 SG, never changed the cam bearings, didn’t have tool.
letting him borrow mine, here are my questions.
If the lifters are already primed do you still set zero lash the same and how many turns do you make on the pushrods( S&S quickies)?
To me it would seem that if the lifters are primed won’t that change the number of flats?
TIA !
letting him borrow mine, here are my questions.
If the lifters are already primed do you still set zero lash the same and how many turns do you make on the pushrods( S&S quickies)?
To me it would seem that if the lifters are primed won’t that change the number of flats?
TIA !
Always set pushrods to zero lash (zero lash is a just barely snug pushrods).. Then from there extend pushrods 4 full turns and lock it down... Here's a video, hope it helps..
And here's a chart for preloading the lifters based on pushrods TPI, threads per inch
https://images.app.goo.gl/aya8yhTYjbUKcjNi7
https://images.app.goo.gl/aya8yhTYjbUKcjNi7
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 28, 2021 at 08:33 PM.
The lifters should be bled before adjusting lash. You are setting the zero lash against the internal springs in the lifter, then adjusting down to the center of the lifter travel.
Check your cam and lifter manufacturers recommendations before setting lash.
Check your cam and lifter manufacturers recommendations before setting lash.
Last edited by multihdrdr; Dec 29, 2021 at 07:42 AM.
Lifters usually come pumped up from whoever you bought them from.. You do not need to bleed them down to adjust them properly.. Always make sure the cylinder you are doing is at TDC. Start with a loose pushrod (short) then adjust the length longer till there is no gap or play in the pushrod as I showed in my video. Then adjust the preload on the lifter with 4 full turns. On the S$S pushrod with 32 TPI this would be .125". Most all stock or standard lifters have .200" of plunger travel. Anything less would be a limited travel lifter or a slow bleed race lifter.. It all depends on the manufacturer.. The method I'm describing is from the "top down" in other words the lifter plunger is all the way up because of the spring in the lifter body.. This method is fool proof and I believe the safest way for a first timer.. Once the proper adjustment is made wait till you can spin the pushrod before turning the motor over to do the other cylinder. It could take 10-15 minutes for the lifter to bleed down, this will ensure you did not set the preload to deep and possibly have valve to piston contact when turning the motor over to set the other cylinder.. I've done it this way for over 40 years on cars and bikes with Hydraulic lifters and never had an issue..
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