Wonder what a restrictor in the baffle would do to the dip.

Like a torque insert, tractor supply has a washer with a stud welded on in the fencing section, looks like it would work. I ran a few test on a Bassani RR3 in a sporty, nothing dyno wise (can’t afford it) just seat of pants testing.

Felt like it made a difference, psychosomatic maybe but I feel I felt it.

 

I have that same pipe and a bigger motor build. I have that same dip though it’s not quite as extreme. And my tuner agreed that the TBR is the limiting factor. And is similar in performance to the other short 2-1 exhausts like the Bassani Road Rage and the ilk. It still feels good by seat of the pants and sounds pretty amazing. I’ll run it this season and look at a longer exhaust like the HPI or Stainless Thunder header. (Or I may take a stab at fabricating a longer muffler on the TBR collector.)

 

As @Max Headflow stated.
I don't think it's the pipe. The Cam timing is a little much for a stock motor.
In the posted Dyno sheet, take a good look at the curve.. This is with an older Hooker 2-1 with a wide-open perforated pipe and a cam that has higher TDC lifts allowing for better cylinder fill in the lower RPM range. No Dip just good low end mid.
Max is correct about the TW-5 or even the TW-222. It's an excellent cam for a stock 96"er and even a 103"er.
In all honesty there is not a Fueling cam that I like. They are better than stock, but they don't suit me and there are many others that perform better..

 

All I can tell you is without a shadow of a doubt Rob at Robs dyno service hates the pipe, told me the low end power would suffer as a result of it and he was spot on. We picked the Feuling cam specifically as an option that would work for both the stock motor setup I’m running now and big bore/high compression I’ll eventually be transitioning to. The goal for this iteration was 90/100 and we got within 4HP which is totally good enough for me for how minimal my investment was. I’ve got a 125HP FXLRST in the garage so if I need something that really screws, I got it covered.

The conversation is good and it really motivated me to get some before/after comparative data as the bikes evolution continues so look forward to that.

 

I'll flip.. After looking at the pipe closer, I'd say it ain't that hot.. Straight trough perforated baffle and short rear headpipe probably are robbing power. Going to less of a cam will help but I suspect that that pipe does better with a stock cam compared to others with stock cams..

FWIW I like the Bassani RRIII even tho it's short.. Addling a 5 inch extension to the baffle helps a bunch with noise and smooths the torque delivery without creating a back pressure. I do miss the original Bassani RR with the long kicked up exhaust. Real nice power power band.. Wish they made it in SS..

 

Hoping I can get a confirmation or correction the below parts list would cover the totality of required hard parts to convert to dual disc with the exception of consumable like fluids.

Much thanks to the member that shared this, I edited some stuff out of his list I did not think I need and am working to understand real budget requirements for the conversion.

 

A lollipop in the pipe may be an easy fix. I e heard they work well for drag pipes, they may be just the ticket in this case too.

 

Unless you live in Surdykes area they won't ship to you anymore. You'll have to go with Ronnie's or your local dealer.

 

Thanks for the response. My main concern is if the part listing looks inclusive of what I need.

Then I can hunt the stuff.

 

Sent the wheels off for powder coating and after 3 weeks got them back. Was happy with how they came out, its not chrome but for a bunch of reasons inclusive of cost, lead time and logistics - powder coating was the path of least resistance.

Challenges with reassembly all centered around the lack of masking. I had a shop reinstall the bearings and they did not tell me they had any issues but when it came to the brake discs and pulley - nothing wanted to go back on. The powdercoater did not mask either the outside of the hub or the flanges where brake discs and pulley seat. So, getting the parts to index and sit flush meant a lot of filing/grinding of the powder coat on the lip of the hub.

Got everything on and I swear both my front and rear brakes are far more spongy than they were before (I did not open either brake circuit, so no reason they should need to be bled). Granted, it's been a month since I've ridden it and in the meantime I've been riding my FXLRST which has a rock hard front brake and a firm but minimally useful rear, so maybe its just the one bike to another but I don't remember the difference being so stark. I have eyeballed the discs and from what I can see, they look centered between the pads.. I am concerned though that the very slight offset of the discs from the thickness of the powder coating and/or the discs not being perfectly flush to the hubs is contributing to this feeling. Just pushing the bike around it does not feel like there is any dragging, nor can I hear a disc dragging. I only got to take the bike out for a 5 min ride, the weather here has been garbage but I am wanting to do any other checks you guys suggest before my next 45 mile commute to work.