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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Yeah, $700 list price ... unfortunately show "This item is Sold Out" at the factory currently
The Newer wheels are also made for the thinner 25mm bearings so a few other things will have to change front and rear
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Talked to my dealer briefly and they said wheel would be a week out, but - I was just getting options together at that point. Going to call them shortly and see if I can get actual quote with lead time. Not going to be surprised at all if its closer to we have no idea when than the 1 week they initially said.
I'd never seen the Lyndall wheels I have on my Softail in the wild ever, until this week lol. An ST on Tik Tok and now your FXR. Can only mean there's at least 3 people who have incredible taste in wheels. lol. Bummer on the pulley, not sure why a small section of HD wheels seem to eat pulleys but the wider tire Dyna era had had more pulley/wheel failures than I've ever seen on these bikes.
Talked to my dealer briefly and they said wheel would be a week out, but - I was just getting options together at that point. Going to call them shortly and see if I can get actual quote with lead time. Not going to be surprised at all if its closer to we have no idea when than the 1 week they initially said.
Good looks ! I have the dealer giving me a couple quotes, 1 to address the rear and another to do that plus dual disk the front. Supposedly the rear wheel is a week and a half out, so if true, that timing works OK.
Im going to keep that post saved, it may be a better option.
So, I got some pricing back from the dealer today:
The replace the stuff on the rear easy to understand. I did ask them to price out replacing both wheels and dual disk converting the front. I only have the verbal quote so no parts list but does $2500ish sound right for the conversion using all new HD parts ?
They also quoting $1400 in labor (including rear stuff) if I were to have them do it.
So, I got some pricing back from the dealer today:
The replace the stuff on the rear easy to understand. I did ask them to price out replacing both wheels and dual disk converting the front. I only have the verbal quote so no parts list but does $2500ish sound right for the conversion using all new HD parts ?
They also quoting $1400 in labor (including rear stuff) if I were to have them do it.
Parts:
11/16th master
Front brake lines
Right caliper w/pads
Right rotor
Right fork slider
Front rim
Rear rim
Rear sprocket
Necessary hardware and fluids, gaskets, etc.
Labor:
Unmount and remount both tires, balance
Crack open the primary, hopefully check for damage and report
R&R both complete wheel assemblies
Rebuild right fork leg with new parts, really should rebuild both to keep them in sync
Install and bleed new and existing brake components
I'm going to guess $1400 is ~10 hours of shop time which seems reasonable for that much work, I wouldn't be surprised if that number goes up though. None of that work is difficult, but there are some special tools needed and of course you need the basics too. Personally, I would never let anyone touch my bike much less pay them for it, but I am very blessed to have the tools and knowhow.
Last edited by snake_eyes; Apr 9, 2026 at 09:41 AM.
Got the parts ordered today for the repair of the rear wheel disaster and dual disc - Talked to my powder coat guy and the plan is to do the same powder coat I did previously on the new wheels and pulley (making SURE all the machined surfaces are masked this time).
One thing, The factory dual brake line setup was not available - suggestions for what I should use for lines ?
Got the parts ordered today for the repair of the rear wheel disaster and dual disc - Talked to my powder coat guy and the plan is to do the same powder coat I did previously on the new wheels and pulley (making SURE all the machined surfaces are masked this time).
One thing, The factory dual brake line setup was not available - suggestions for what I should use for lines ?
Hoping by early June, back on the road.
Order a custom set if lines from Galfer. They're not that expensive and the ordering process isn't as hard as it looks at first glance. They are obviously far superior to OEM.
I'm running the ARP bolts - can't remember if they have the washers or not, but I'm guessing not - and I assumed that would be the way to go. I'm going to have the wheel off in the next month or so to replace the tire and plan on replacing the bolts again with new ARPs that I already have, just for piece of mind. If I don't have washers now I'll be adding them. I also put a dab of torque seal paint on the bolts so a quick inspection will tell me if they've moved at all, without touching them with a wrench and breaking the loctite bond.
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