[QUOTE=PitDog;4272170 the 7in. just barely clear the tank.[/QUOTE]

The Wideglide is raked more with 3° trees...do you think they will hit his tank?

You may have to go with the taller ones or possibly may need a spacer on these same bars.

Something to check into.

 

Thanks Mascman. I looked at the Carlini website and they show a 04 WG with the clean sweep 1.5" thick 7" rise bars on, and they seem fine. See here: http://www.carlinidesign.com/handleb...answeep150.php , bottom of page, pics 44, 45, 46.

 

Yeah, that looks like a lot of room...just watch your cables the first time you rotate from lock to lock!

Bars are going to look good.

 

Thanks Mascman, I'll do that. And yes, I think they'll look great on my WG.

 

I would suggest polyurethane bushings also.

I had them on my bike, but decided to put the stock rubber ones back on because I thought it would cut down the vibration.

The bars became too mushy so the poly will be going back on before summer.

 

I have generic bars on my Wide Glide with 8" rise and don't remember the pullback. Very comfortable riding position. Absolutely no regrets with these bars. I dropped the turn signals, ran the wires internally, and added a 3" tank lift. I think it looks stellar now.

 

got any side pics?

 

They're not very good, but here's a couple...

 

I would recommend leaving the factory casing on the switch wiring harness for the full length through the bars, and I will explain why. When I put on my Carlini 1-1/4" T bars I noticed that when the bars where turned lock to lock the wiring even WITH the full length of the casing in place, the casing moved slightly back and forth where the wires exit the bars. Enough to leave small black particles of the harness casing on the top triple clamp just below the harness exit holes. Carlini did not deburr the exit holes, and I would make sure on any handlebar installation, that the wires will be run internally, that ALL the holes are deburred and smooth BEFORE running the wires through the bars. Problem is how do you know how smooth the bars are on the inside where the bars are welded to the risers at the 90 degree bend. That is where I would want to have the extra protection of the factory casing. I ended up taking the harness back out of the frame and ejecting the signal wires from the multi pin connectors again so I could place small firewall style rubber grommets over the harness and slipped them into the bars where the wires exit. Now there is NO movement of the wires when turning the bars. After experiencing this I looked at every bike I saw at a bike show with T bars and internal wiring and noticed the same black powder on the top clamp from the harness casing being filed away, on many of the bikes I looked at. I just wouldn't want to run into a situation where fuses blow, or worse an electrical fire. The casing WILL fit it just requires a "easy push and pull" technique to slowly work the harness through the bars (and the 90 degree bend). If you just pull on the wires they will get stuck. Also noteworthy...I believe the HD Street Slammers come with rubber grommets in the exit holes.

 

Baeseman1, thanks for the pics, great looking bike! I find that 8" or higher rise t-bars look strange on some bikes, but on the WG with its longer fork tubes they look great. The tank lift looks good too. I have Jackyl's 2" lift, which I might put on the bike.