Carlini t-bars original or clean sweeps
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
From: Italy
I would recommend leaving the factory casing on the switch wiring harness for the full length through the bars, and I will explain why. When I put on my Carlini 1-1/4" T bars I noticed that when the bars where turned lock to lock the wiring even WITH the full length of the casing in place, the casing moved slightly back and forth where the wires exit the bars. Enough to leave small black particles of the harness casing on the top triple clamp just below the harness exit holes. Carlini did not deburr the exit holes, and I would make sure on any handlebar installation, that the wires will be run internally, that ALL the holes are deburred and smooth BEFORE running the wires through the bars. Problem is how do you know how smooth the bars are on the inside where the bars are welded to the risers at the 90 degree bend. That is where I would want to have the extra protection of the factory casing. I ended up taking the harness back out of the frame and ejecting the signal wires from the multi pin connectors again so I could place small firewall style rubber grommets over the harness and slipped them into the bars where the wires exit. Now there is NO movement of the wires when turning the bars. After experiencing this I looked at every bike I saw at a bike show with T bars and internal wiring and noticed the same black powder on the top clamp from the harness casing being filed away, on many of the bikes I looked at. I just wouldn't want to run into a situation were fuses blow, or worse an electrical fire. The casing WILL fit it just requires a "easy push and pull" technique to slowly work the harness through the bars (and the 90 degree bend). If you just pull on the wires they will get stuck. Also noteworthy...I believe the HD Street Slammers come with rubber grommets in the exit holes.
BTW where did you get you bars from? Are there any places where one could get a discount (e.g., Zanottis)?
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 5
From: Arizona
1.) the grips will fit (the bars are not cut too short)
2.) the holes for the wiring are deburred to protect the switch wiring, and if not...with a round file knock off the burrs. I would recommend using firewall grommets on the harness casing too. It makes for a factory lookin install.
3.) the risers mountings will line up properly with the top clamp holes, and the mounting bolt threads in the risers are OK. In other words just make sure EVERYTHING about them is OK before bolting them up.
Hope this helps, and Merry Christmas to ya,
Tech23.
Last edited by Tech23; Dec 25, 2008 at 12:39 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/Fort Worth, TX
What bars are these ? Where can I look at them ? thanks!
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/Fort Worth, TX
Boy that Carlini Design are pretty proud of their drag bars!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 3
From: Clarksburg, PA
If you want the same style but at about $40 check out KC International.
I bought many things from them and the prices are great.
http://kcint.zoovy.com/c=7kS3NJ4HTYJ...bars___risers/
I bought many things from them and the prices are great.
http://kcint.zoovy.com/c=7kS3NJ4HTYJ...bars___risers/
I just purchased a set of 6 inch Carlini t bars from a coworker, but it did not come with the bolts. Will my stock ( I think 1 inch riser ) bolts work? If not which bolts should I be looking for?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
