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Carlini t-bars original or clean sweeps

  #21  
Old 12-24-2008, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Tech23
I would recommend leaving the factory casing on the switch wiring harness for the full length through the bars, and I will explain why. When I put on my Carlini 1-1/4" T bars I noticed that when the bars where turned lock to lock the wiring even WITH the full length of the casing in place, the casing moved slightly back and forth where the wires exit the bars. Enough to leave small black particles of the harness casing on the top triple clamp just below the harness exit holes. Carlini did not deburr the exit holes, and I would make sure on any handlebar installation, that the wires will be run internally, that ALL the holes are deburred and smooth BEFORE running the wires through the bars. Problem is how do you know how smooth the bars are on the inside where the bars are welded to the risers at the 90 degree bend. That is where I would want to have the extra protection of the factory casing. I ended up taking the harness back out of the frame and ejecting the signal wires from the multi pin connectors again so I could place small firewall style rubber grommets over the harness and slipped them into the bars where the wires exit. Now there is NO movement of the wires when turning the bars. After experiencing this I looked at every bike I saw at a bike show with T bars and internal wiring and noticed the same black powder on the top clamp from the harness casing being filed away, on many of the bikes I looked at. I just wouldn't want to run into a situation were fuses blow, or worse an electrical fire. The casing WILL fit it just requires a "easy push and pull" technique to slowly work the harness through the bars (and the 90 degree bend). If you just pull on the wires they will get stuck. Also noteworthy...I believe the HD Street Slammers come with rubber grommets in the exit holes.
Tech23 thanks for the tips. I'll look into them when installing the t-bars.

BTW where did you get you bars from? Are there any places where one could get a discount (e.g., Zanottis)?
 
  #22  
Old 12-24-2008, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Baeseman1
They're not very good, but here's a couple...



sweet, thanks. The tank lift helps alot with the pullback of the bars.
 
  #23  
Old 12-24-2008, 06:12 PM
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Buscha, I won't BS ya I know I few things about bikes and its a project. I replaced the Bars and installed chrome everything on them. Have alot of patience and nothing else to do that day.
 
  #24  
Old 12-24-2008, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BUSCHA
Tech23 thanks for the tips. I'll look into them when installing the t-bars.

BTW where did you get you bars from? Are there any places where one could get a discount (e.g., Zanottis)?
No Problem...I bought my Carlini T Bars from a small independant shop in Pennsylvania. I bought a bunch of stuff at the same time. He cut me a discount on the total bill. I just looked through my reciepts and they were $204.00, but that was in 2001. Short of shopping around I can't say where the best price may be. One caution...I wanted to run rubber (stock) grips on the T Bars. I went to put the grips on and noticed the bars were cut about 3/4" short so the end of the rubber grip had no support, this was not an issue on the throttle side because of the throttle tube. I called Carlini and they told me the bars are designed for "Billet Grips" yea right...Bull S**t. I said you F'ed up and cut the bars too short. I went to the Indy I bought them from and he gladly machined me a 3/4" shouldered plug to fit into the left bar end....problem solved. So if you go with Carlinis do yourself a favor, make sure:

1.) the grips will fit (the bars are not cut too short)
2.) the holes for the wiring are deburred to protect the switch wiring, and if not...with a round file knock off the burrs. I would recommend using firewall grommets on the harness casing too. It makes for a factory lookin install.
3.) the risers mountings will line up properly with the top clamp holes, and the mounting bolt threads in the risers are OK. In other words just make sure EVERYTHING about them is OK before bolting them up.

Hope this helps, and Merry Christmas to ya,

Tech23.


 

Last edited by Tech23; 12-25-2008 at 12:39 AM.
  #25  
Old 12-24-2008, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Baeseman1
I have generic bars on my Wide Glide with 8" rise and don't remember the pullback. Very comfortable riding position. Absolutely no regrets with these bars. I dropped the turn signals, ran the wires internally, and added a 3" tank lift. I think it looks stellar now.


What bars are these ? Where can I look at them ? thanks!
 
  #26  
Old 12-24-2008, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mascman
Yeah, that looks like a lot of room...just watch your cables the first time you rotate from lock to lock!

Bars are going to look good.

Boy that Carlini Design are pretty proud of their drag bars!
 
  #27  
Old 12-24-2008, 10:49 PM
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If you want the same style but at about $40 check out KC International.

I bought many things from them and the prices are great.

http://kcint.zoovy.com/c=7kS3NJ4HTYJ...bars___risers/
 
  #28  
Old 07-24-2017, 07:33 PM
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I just purchased a set of 6 inch Carlini t bars from a coworker, but it did not come with the bolts. Will my stock ( I think 1 inch riser ) bolts work? If not which bolts should I be looking for?
 
  #29  
Old 07-24-2017, 07:47 PM
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My Carlinis accepted the stock bolt threads but the bolts themselves were too long. They bottomed out inside the risers. Extremely simple to find out. Just try it.
 
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  #30  
Old 07-24-2017, 07:48 PM
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Thanks weather permitting going to try and put them on tomorrow.
 
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