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Brake Pad Question

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Old May 19, 2009 | 12:59 PM
  #11  
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Lyndall z plus pads. I only remove the cover if I am unable to get the pistons back into the caliper. It does make it easier, butif youa re concerned about a mess wrap a bunch of rags around the master cylinder.
 
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Old May 19, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Thanks a million everyone! I will be going with the Lyndalls.
 
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Old May 19, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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I just open the bleeder, stick a vinyl hose on it, and open the calipers. Since I completely change out the brake fluid anyway, it only makes sense. You wouldnt believe how much microscopic metal fragments are floating around in old brake fluid

Oh yeah, +99 on Lyndalls.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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I just bled my brakes when i had the back wheel off. I stuck a thick flat bar in between the pads and put a tie rap around it to hold it on and simulate the rotor thickness and bled it in the air so i didn't get fluid all over my back wheel.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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If you've added fluid or performed a flush, you may want to draw some off before retracting the calipers. I always have the covers on unless I'm adding fluid or taking some away.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kk6pg
I just open the bleeder, stick a vinyl hose on it, and open the calipers. Since I completely change out the brake fluid anyway, it only makes sense. You wouldnt believe how much microscopic metal fragments are floating around in old brake fluid

Oh yeah, +99 on Lyndalls.
+1 on the above.

If you have used up your pads and changing them out I would recommend replacing the fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water, this can cause corrosion and possible spongy brake and/or fade under hard use (water boils).

Remove the caliper, depress the pads back, remove pads and clean the brake dust out, replace pads and re-install caliper. Use a long piece of silicone vacuum tubing on the bleeder, crack it open and then unscrew the cover, drain the fluid keeping the master filled as you gently pump the brake lever closing the bleeder as you pump.

This the way I do it and I have never got air in the system.

Note:
If you have topped the system before, you will have to remove the cover and take some fluid out first before pushing the pads back.

On my bike it needs to be on the jiffy with the bars turned to the left to get the master level.

Make sure you do not over tighten the cover or it will seep around the gasket, just lightly tighten the screws.

CB
 

Last edited by NoLongerAmember; May 20, 2009 at 04:10 PM.
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Old May 20, 2009 | 04:07 PM
  #17  
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+1 ... better than stock

Originally Posted by thedonthere
Use Lyndall pads. A much better pad. Almost dustless
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/testimonials.htm
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #18  
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Did the rear pads this evening. Not too bad and did not have to remove the master cylinder cover. Put some Lyndall Z-Plus on. I don't think I have the tools to take the damn cover off anyway. How do you get to those screws? Swivel screwdriver sockets? I thought the Snap-On man had taken enough of my $$ but apparently not.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 04:11 AM
  #19  
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glad this topic was covered, afraid to do much with the cap off the master cylinder, as in 08 they went back to the old paint chewem up brake fluid.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 04:42 AM
  #20  
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Heard good things about the Lyndals and will probably go with them when I do my first rear tire change in about 1k. Question though. Why the Zs and not the Golds? The site says the Zs are the most rotor friendly, is that why.

And is there a good online source for them besides the factory site.


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Last edited by jimmers1817; Jun 1, 2009 at 04:58 AM.
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