motor mount question
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: schofield barracks, HI
motor mount question
So i did my research or tried about vibration im having when i go over bumps and also and downshifting/ slowing down. the problem I am having is that everyone says check the motor mounts, upper and lower, but being that I am learning as I go with this stuff I have no idea where im looking for. I figure the lower are below the oil cooler, but not sure. If someone could put pics up of where and what i am supposed to check to make sure they are tight I would be so appreciative. I mean you could do this for me in the holiday spirit haha.
thanks folks...
2007 fxdc about 5400miles, had service done in september. def sound coming from front and rattles pretty good. if ya need more info let me know.
thanks folks...
2007 fxdc about 5400miles, had service done in september. def sound coming from front and rattles pretty good. if ya need more info let me know.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Smack Dab in the Middle of Louisiana
ortar man 81's or 4 deuces?
If your going to start wrench'n, I would suggest at least a manual for the bike plus a parts manual, they are cheep enough.
Plus there are a bunch of articles on the subject right here in the Dyna Forum, look under shimming the motor mount threads, tons of pictures there.
Motor Mounts are #'s 13, 15, 16,
Here's a web site with parts break out for your bike;
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....?Type=12&A=479
If your going to start wrench'n, I would suggest at least a manual for the bike plus a parts manual, they are cheep enough.
Plus there are a bunch of articles on the subject right here in the Dyna Forum, look under shimming the motor mount threads, tons of pictures there.
Motor Mounts are #'s 13, 15, 16,
Here's a web site with parts break out for your bike;
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....?Type=12&A=479
Last edited by SteveO-ll; Dec 15, 2010 at 01:10 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Agree with Steve - I suggest you get the factory service manual. There are cheaper ones out there, but save your money. If you have an oil cooler your rattle could be quite simple, or the start of something more serious with the actual motor mount. The drawing above comes from the factory parts book (get one of those as well) and will help to explain how your bike is built up.
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From: schofield barracks, HI
thanks guys ill try and order and parts manual and a service manual. i think that was myu prob, i searched and even read the topics on that icecapps made but couldnt really see where i was looking for. this pic helps. as for my cannons ha, i went to afghanistan with 120mm's last year and this time ill be working with 81's and 120's. i love my job.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Port Coquitlam B.C.
I hope this makes sense. The attached picture is of a bad front mount. It's turned 90 degrees. The space that has been circled should not be there on a good mount. That is the bottom of the mount.
There is a cross member welded across the front downtubes. That is were the top two bolts (paint worn off) bolt too. The holes you can see on the left side of the picture are what bolt to the engine. There is a tab that sticks out the front of the engine and that tab is pinched by the mount. So it is the outer metal frame of the mount that moves with the engine. The metal part in the center (paint worn off) does not move.
The mount in the picture, the rubber has got weak and allowed the weight of the engine to sag the mount. When it gets like this that tab sticking out of the engine for the top of the mount starts to touch the cross member and transfers a lot of vibrations to the handlebars.
A new mount that hasn't been installed won't have that gap. But once it's on the bike there will be a small gap there. If you can get a good look at it a new mount will have a small gap on both the top and bottom that are the same size.
There is a cross member welded across the front downtubes. That is were the top two bolts (paint worn off) bolt too. The holes you can see on the left side of the picture are what bolt to the engine. There is a tab that sticks out the front of the engine and that tab is pinched by the mount. So it is the outer metal frame of the mount that moves with the engine. The metal part in the center (paint worn off) does not move.
The mount in the picture, the rubber has got weak and allowed the weight of the engine to sag the mount. When it gets like this that tab sticking out of the engine for the top of the mount starts to touch the cross member and transfers a lot of vibrations to the handlebars.
A new mount that hasn't been installed won't have that gap. But once it's on the bike there will be a small gap there. If you can get a good look at it a new mount will have a small gap on both the top and bottom that are the same size.
Last edited by PoCoBob; Dec 15, 2010 at 01:07 PM.
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From: southeast PA
A common source of your problem can also come from the tank bolts. Put a 1/2" socket on them and make sure they are tight.
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From: Florida
Not for nothing but I would make sure your tire pressure is right and you didn't loose a rim balancing weight. I have seen that cause an annoying vibration a time or two but with the newer rubber mount motors thay have so many damn parts that can work loose too
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
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From: Florida
For more tips on this subject search this forum for "washer shim" or "mount shim".
There is a front mount and a rear mount. The top (third) mount is not really a mount but a vertical stabilizer bolt. The manual will tell you how to set the stabilizing which is usually done after checking and/or setting the belt tension and rear alignment. You will need an inclinometer to stick to the front and rear brake pads to match vertical readings. The best deal on an inclinometer is one at Harbor Freight for about $5 or less.
Last edited by R_W_B; Dec 15, 2010 at 07:06 PM.
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