Slipping Handlebars
I use a center punch and put raised dimples on the bar in the clamp area. That combined with a piece of thin rubber (bike inner tube) between the bottom riser and the bar and you'll be good to go.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
I would carefully rough up the surface of the top clamp and risers area and the bar area where it contacts the clamp reassemble it and see if that helps. Rough it up, not remove material.
I personally would not put anything in between the clamp and the bars, this could easily lead to the same problem and if this needs to be done then I would question the clamp or the manufacture of the bars. If you need more clamping force then you could sand down the face of the "risers" a little to reduce the radius, but this should lead you to just replacing them.
If you look on the top one piece clamp there are two small stand offs cast into it and those need to contact the lower riser to start so with the one piece top clamp make sure you snug down the lower bolts so the clamp contacts the risers first and then torque the upper bolts and then the lower bolts.
Personally I would not run a bar that was not Knurled and I could care less who the manufacturer was, simply a cost saving operation throwing safety out the window. Both my '07 and '09 stock bars were knurled, '06 was not? Seems to me there was a recall or service bulletin on the '06 bars breaking?? The OP was not clear on whether the bars are OE?
I personally would not put anything in between the clamp and the bars, this could easily lead to the same problem and if this needs to be done then I would question the clamp or the manufacture of the bars. If you need more clamping force then you could sand down the face of the "risers" a little to reduce the radius, but this should lead you to just replacing them.
If you look on the top one piece clamp there are two small stand offs cast into it and those need to contact the lower riser to start so with the one piece top clamp make sure you snug down the lower bolts so the clamp contacts the risers first and then torque the upper bolts and then the lower bolts.
Personally I would not run a bar that was not Knurled and I could care less who the manufacturer was, simply a cost saving operation throwing safety out the window. Both my '07 and '09 stock bars were knurled, '06 was not? Seems to me there was a recall or service bulletin on the '06 bars breaking?? The OP was not clear on whether the bars are OE?
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
What worked for me and my 16" Burly Apes was Locktite Red. I applied a little bit on both top and bottom of the knurled area on the bars and clamped it down to the proper spec, then let it dry for a few and I have not had the bars slip since. I even marked the bars to see if there was any and nothing.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 479
Likes: 1
From: Sharpsburg,GA
I found the suggestion on the forums here when I was having trouble, and the bars have been on the bike almost a year and in all types if on road situations. With no slippage at all. I used loctite red which holds very tight.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Since I'm no machinist, would it be possible to take the bars in question to a local machine shop and let them knurl them? I'm not 100% sure of how that process is performed, but worth a suggestion.
Also, you could use a center punch to create some basic knurling to allow the top clamp something to bite into. Ya know, when you c-punch it usually causes material to push up creating a sort of rim. I know it's not a lot of material but it may just be enough.
Also, you could use a center punch to create some basic knurling to allow the top clamp something to bite into. Ya know, when you c-punch it usually causes material to push up creating a sort of rim. I know it's not a lot of material but it may just be enough.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
The knurling is done, usually on a lathe, before the bends are put into the bars.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, Tx
Another easy fix would be to put an alignment mak on the bars and risers, pull the top clamp, drill a small hole through the bars (carefully, don't wanna nick wires) into the riser and insert a roll pin to hold the bars in that position. Once the clamp is back, you'll never know its there.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Okay, try this stuff. Check some bicycle websites for stuff made by Ritchey. It is a red gel with microspheres suspended that is used to reduce the torque requirements for slipping handlebars. worked on my roadbike (bicycle). It is gritty and can scratch surfaces, so becareful when cleaning any excess. Even wiping with a rag will leave scratches. It is not a glue.
few fixes for this out there, use a hole punch and make your own by drilling a hole then punching out a bit, or as posted elsewhere drill a small indentation in the riser and place a ball bearing in there and torque it down on that, or do the same thing and insert a high tensile split pin (also drilling the hole in the bars).
I myself don't have knurled bars and don't worry about it that much I would prefer my apes gave way if I ever went of the front in an accident I know a few guys that have been hurt quite bad, cause their apes didn't move and the apes and their body took all of the impact in the crash,
I myself don't have knurled bars and don't worry about it that much I would prefer my apes gave way if I ever went of the front in an accident I know a few guys that have been hurt quite bad, cause their apes didn't move and the apes and their body took all of the impact in the crash,