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How do you check your spoke torque/tightness?

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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 04:26 PM
  #11  
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Here is a link to instructions for spoke torqueing.

http://www.fasstco.com/technical/tut...sting-tutorial
 
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by tomt
Here is a link to instructions for spoke torqueing.

http://www.fasstco.com/technical/tut...sting-tutorial
Looks good.. I'd only do one flat (1/4 turn) till torqued..
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 05:39 AM
  #13  
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great thread! And cudos to Tom and bwolts for their to the point advice.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sacto95827
I'm just wondering why the Harley service manual instructs you to loosen 1/4 turn and then torque to factory specs:
That's because torque wrenches are designed to be used so that the bolt )or in this case spoke) is moving at the time the specified torque is reached. There is a difference between static and dynamic force on a fastener, largely due to friction. Placing a torque wrench on a fastener (spoke, bolt, etc), applying force to the wrench and hearing it click if the spoke is not moving is not an accurate verification of torque. Fasteners must be moving at the time the required torque is indicated on the wrench or else you may be generating a false positive.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 08:21 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by sacto95827
HI'm just wondering why the Harley service manual instructs you to loosen 1/4 turn and then torque to factory specs
Because of something called 'stickion'... not really a word but describes the issue. If you don't break the thread loose a little, and just try to tighten to torque, the amount of torque required to break the thread loose is often above your stated torque for the spoke ( ~55in/lb). So by backing it off first, you've broken the thread loose so that you can achieve 'real' torque.

As for the statement of tightening the spoke because they are loose and pulling the wheel out of tru... that's BS... the spoke is loose.. if the wheel was true when the spoke was tight... then putting the spoke back to torque specs when the wheel was tru, does not pull the wheel out of tru.
Having said that, you DO want to check the rest of your spokes for proper torque... which is actually really checking the tension... because spokes don't get loose by the nipple rotating, they get loose by stretching.

The ting-ting-tong method, is a good 'kick the tires and light the fires' type of check before you head off in the morning on a run... but it is something to pay attention to... the lower the 'tong' tone, the looser the spoke is... and you need to have it checked as soon as possible.

If you are going to mess with your spoked rims... get yourself a truing stand and a spoke torque wrench
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 08:24 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
"ting, ting, ting, tong, tong, ting, ting, ting, tong".....

"Ting" is good, "tong" is bad, the wheels don't really go out of true much once built, just check the tension every 4-5,000 miles and you'll be right.

Takes a lot to pull them out of true once the tyre is inflated.
I use the "clink clink ... clank" method :>)
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 08:31 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Uncle Larry
I use the "clink clink ... clank" method :>)
East vs: West ?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 08:35 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by archergodwin
East vs: West ?
Yep :>)
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 08:54 AM
  #19  
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Wheel truing is almost more "art" than science. Wheel builders have my respect. I remember doing my first wheel on my BMX bicycle, back in the early 1970's. It required patience and know how. 2 things I lacked. I ended up with a pretzel.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by archergodwin
Because of something called 'stickion'... not really a word but describes the issue.
It's really a "Word" when you spell it correctly..."Stiction"




.
 
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