Motor break in
After 50 miles (or so) taking it relatively easy, and (only) with an already warmed up engine, run it up past 4000 through the gears, often, but do it quickly and then downshift back down through the gears. Up and down. It's actually good for the longevity as well as the overall performance of the motor.
Plus the computer will learn you're not a *****.
Plus the computer will learn you're not a *****.
Machining is so close today it's already broke in. Harley just hopes you will catch it if by chance something comes loose or brakes. They would rather replace a few parts rather then something major. However mine has 40K and I do not run it 4000rpm.
Not sure how the traffic is where you live but stop-and-go riding is the best for break-in. In a city grid there are lights, stop signs and slowdowns/speed ups and such. Lets you go through all the gears and through all the RPMs constantly. You may put 50 miles on the odometer in 2 hours but it'll be quality break in. Drop oil at 500 miles, the first time.
thedonthere, 11bdad and The Dean had the best advice and I'm glad you read Motoman's column.
Either accelerate or decelerate hard for the first 100 miles (I did it for the first 300), dump your oil often and use non-synthetic (like Rotella T 15W-40). In other words, follow Motoman's advice.
I recently built my bike, new cylinders, cams, etc. I ran mine hard for the first 20 miles and changed oil. Did about 3 more hard 20 mile runs on the back roads and changed oil again. I continued the hard runs and at 300 miles I had the bike dyno tuned and changed the oil again.
Now I ride the bike normal and don't worry about glazing the cylinders, the bike is broken in and the rings are seated. At about 2,500 miles I'll switch to Amsoil 20/50 synthetic.
Either accelerate or decelerate hard for the first 100 miles (I did it for the first 300), dump your oil often and use non-synthetic (like Rotella T 15W-40). In other words, follow Motoman's advice.
I recently built my bike, new cylinders, cams, etc. I ran mine hard for the first 20 miles and changed oil. Did about 3 more hard 20 mile runs on the back roads and changed oil again. I continued the hard runs and at 300 miles I had the bike dyno tuned and changed the oil again.
Now I ride the bike normal and don't worry about glazing the cylinders, the bike is broken in and the rings are seated. At about 2,500 miles I'll switch to Amsoil 20/50 synthetic.
I was wondering something, I have the Thundermax on my Fatboy, the Thundermax logs the RPMS you have reached, how long you stayed at that rpm, and when you hit it.
Does the newer stock ECM log the RPMs, for warranty information? If so, wouold not following the manufacturer guidelines, could cause you issues if you have a problem a couple of years from now?
Does the newer stock ECM log the RPMs, for warranty information? If so, wouold not following the manufacturer guidelines, could cause you issues if you have a problem a couple of years from now?
Checked my belt at 1k and did not need any adjusting, I am over 2k now I will have to check again.
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