What the ******
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Illinois
What the ******
I got a 10 Superglide just when the 11's were hitting the showroom. Only put 1K on it that season as I went on several tours with the bagger.
Last year same thing only 1K. But late last fall when the bike was at 18 months, the battery went dead. It was always on a tender. Took it to the dealer and they use a tester that displays if it needs recharging or replacing. It said replace.They gave me a new one. 10 was the last year for a two year warranty on the battery and now they are 1 year.
Finally got it out this season and plan to put 2K a year on it from now on. Went on a 110 mile loop. Right at about 100 miles I hit a good bump on a curve and the engine cut out and refired. After several more bumps caused the same reaction. The road smoothed out and I got home with out having to push that sucker in this 96 degree heat.
After supper I put it into the garage (air conditioned) and suspected that a battery cable came loose. I was the one that put it in. Pulled the cover and checked the fasteners and they were tight. Checked the ground wire at the case and it was tight. Unfastened the battery case to get at the positive connection and there was the trouble. The positive cable was on the stud and the nut was at least a 1/4 above it. It had never been tightened at the factory. The cable end fits over the stud and because of the bend it made some contact on the nut and the case with a little tension.
Maybe that caused the battery to go but I am a little peeved at myself. All my life when ever I installed a new battery I always checked the connections at both ends. With this bike because it took removing the battery case to check the positive cable connection I skipped it last winter.
With my cars I did that each winter as I would take both ends off and wire brush everything on both cables and torque them down.
I must be getting old and lazy. I let a standard practice go and it almost bit me in the you know what.
Anyway, it should get me through the loop tomorrow when it is only going to be 100.
Last year same thing only 1K. But late last fall when the bike was at 18 months, the battery went dead. It was always on a tender. Took it to the dealer and they use a tester that displays if it needs recharging or replacing. It said replace.They gave me a new one. 10 was the last year for a two year warranty on the battery and now they are 1 year.
Finally got it out this season and plan to put 2K a year on it from now on. Went on a 110 mile loop. Right at about 100 miles I hit a good bump on a curve and the engine cut out and refired. After several more bumps caused the same reaction. The road smoothed out and I got home with out having to push that sucker in this 96 degree heat.
After supper I put it into the garage (air conditioned) and suspected that a battery cable came loose. I was the one that put it in. Pulled the cover and checked the fasteners and they were tight. Checked the ground wire at the case and it was tight. Unfastened the battery case to get at the positive connection and there was the trouble. The positive cable was on the stud and the nut was at least a 1/4 above it. It had never been tightened at the factory. The cable end fits over the stud and because of the bend it made some contact on the nut and the case with a little tension.
Maybe that caused the battery to go but I am a little peeved at myself. All my life when ever I installed a new battery I always checked the connections at both ends. With this bike because it took removing the battery case to check the positive cable connection I skipped it last winter.
With my cars I did that each winter as I would take both ends off and wire brush everything on both cables and torque them down.
I must be getting old and lazy. I let a standard practice go and it almost bit me in the you know what.
Anyway, it should get me through the loop tomorrow when it is only going to be 100.
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