shoot a test sample, but yes that should work fine... i personally would look at the rustoleum painters touch flat clear or satin clear. this will keep that same flat look that primer has... i shot a whole bike in this a while back... used the painters touch satin black, did some airbrush work, and then shot the satin clear over the top, this has held up great! over the etching primer will work just fine, actually they are made to work together!

but as with all rattle can jobs, you really have to watch your prep, recoat times, thin coats, and take your time to avoid runs. expecially when working with a flat/satin clar as you can not wetsand and buff that out...

the trick with rattle cans other than shaking the **** out of them, is soaking them in hot water prior to shooting, this helps with how they atomize and will help them flow out much smoother

if i can help at all just let me know... be sure you use a tack cloth on that primer prior to shooting, again wiht a flat/satin you get what you get when you shoot it







i used the flat clear on my snowmobile hood/windshield when i shot that... here are some pics of the flat vs satin. if i can help let me know, this is one of my fav paints to shoot on small projects when i can not powder coat them and do not want to use the paint guns to shoot a 2 stage paint

base:


flat clear:


On the sled... even did some airbrush work to the shield

 

So guys I decided not to clear over the primer. I have an FXRT fairing that I am throwing on this winter and decided that I want to actually paint it all once that fairing is on. And I am horrible at clear coating stuff so I said screw it. I will post pics shortly of the primer job though. Thanks for all the help.

 

most rattle can base coats NEED a clear for UV protection if not it will complete change color after a bit of time in the sun