I'm able to slide my tank back about 4". I have to disconnect the fuel line and pull the console off, but if I have to get into the wiring harness, if makes work so much easier. I also found it easier to undo the nut and pull the fork lock/ignition switch from the frame then trying to wiggle my fat fingers underneath and try to unplug it.

 

Son of a bitch, that's where the scratch on my front rocker box came from. I have to watch that next time.



Guess that's an excuse to replace it (them) with chrome.

 

Get some vacuum tubing with a diameter that will fill the gap. The tubing will probably have a natural curl to it so slice it on the inside diameter of the curl. Use a sharp razor blade and slice it open, trim it to fit the hole, remove it and super glue the ends together. Instant o-ring, reinstall. The only thing super glue seems to really work on is rubber, a little dab will do ya!
CB

I think the original poster did this.

 

I found a black rubber "sink drain gasket" in my hardware store. It measures 2 1/4" OD.
The ID is too small. So with the sanding drum on my dremmel I sanded the rubber down to 1 7/8. The rubber is 1/8" thick. This basically looks just like the top only half of a grommet. It fits perfectly around my switch and will cover the 2" hole. The slight bevel that is left tucks down between the switch and dash gap. Because it is just sitting on top I will stick it down with some liquid gasket material. photos to come once I get my dash back from the chrome platers.

 

I did what Walter did. I used the black insulation from a discarded piece of 12 ga Romex. Just make a nice straight slit to remove the copper. Put it around the inside of the hole and cut off the excess.

 

Other than the fender-mount license plate, the ignition switch location is about the only thing I don't like about my Street Bob. Really nice work, Walt! I'll be revisiting this thread sometime soon. Thanks for the idea, and for taking the time to post it here.

 

looks good...heres mine on my 06.. i love it

 

I went with the homemade aluminum plate mount method.
As you can see by the picture I left a gap at the bottom of the plate for water to run through if any gets in there again.
I have my plate mocked up on my old Tank top plate that had been painted black. I have a new top plate to install when I get to it.
I also chose to tilt the aluminum plate I made by adding a few extra of the old gasket washers under the front of it. Remember that those gasket washers need to go under your homemade plate to properly seal the tank. Along with longer bolts at the rear (front of bike) to mount the switch, the tilt on the plate helps achieve the proper angle on the switch to match the dash. The space left by using washers under the homemade plate also serves to allow moisture to escape from under the plate.

I also chose to chrome my dash while I was doing this procedure.


I will have a 1/16 inch gap all around my switch because I drilled a 2" hole in the dash for the 1 7/8" switch body.
Even using a drill press to make the hole, I still didn't get it perfectly centered on the dash. It's very close though.
I haven't decided on a grommet to fill and seal the gap between the switch and the dash.
Will post pictures when done.

 

Here's my ignition switch re-location. I know there are several different post on here, but mine I have seen on a Street Bob and mounted it a little different. Well here it goes. I was a little difficult because I made everything so tight so I didn't have to use rubber grommets.

Switch from Eastern Performance on ebay $24.00 Shipped (looks great with a round key)
Hole saw with pilot 1 and 7/8 fits perfect. $15.00 @ hardware store
6/32 nuts and bolts from hardware store $3.00
The ***** to cut into my 6 month old bike....Priceless!!

I don't think I need to type instructions because I think the picture are pretty self explanatory. If you have questions go ahead and ask.

Yes I used a Drill. I recommend to cut from the bottom and keep the pilot bit short to keep it accurate. Then take a die grinder and smooth out the sharp edges then touch up with some spray paint. On the front side I used a q-tip to touch up the black, I barely used any.



I used the flat nuts to adjust the height and angle and the other one to secure it. For the bolts I used a 1/8 inch drill bit.



I wasn't to sure about the bolts, so I did it anyways. I think it turn out good and keeps the ruggedness of the Street Bob. Now I need to wire it and get all back together.

 

I use Mcmaster-Carr for stuff not carried locally. I've used them for years professionally. They may not have the exact one you're looking for, but I though I'd include them as a source for other things as well.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-grommets/=10ogf7

Something like this might work as well:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#flexible-st...ommets/=10olpd