Handlebar Width & Handling
#1
Handlebar Width & Handling
Obvious observation/question, but wasn't expecting such drastic results. Recently put 12" T-bars on my Dyna with a 26" width grip to grip...my former bars were 12" apes with almost 32" of width...and I have to say my 2005 FXDL now handles like a semi-truck. Love the look of the new bars but my handling has gone to crap...has anyone else noticed such a drastic change in handling?
#2
I had the opposite of what you are experiencing. I got rid of the damn near 34" wide stock ape, and went to a 26" wide bar as well, but I feel it is way more nimble. It did take some getting used to, for the first few rides with the new setup, but now that Im used to it, the bike handles awesome!
Question, did you change out the garbage factory riser bushings? Going from apes, to t-bars, with stock rubber bushings, it will have too much flex, and have adverse effects on the handling.
Question, did you change out the garbage factory riser bushings? Going from apes, to t-bars, with stock rubber bushings, it will have too much flex, and have adverse effects on the handling.
#4
I had the opposite of what you are experiencing. I got rid of the damn near 34" wide stock ape, and went to a 26" wide bar as well, but I feel it is way more nimble. It did take some getting used to, for the first few rides with the new setup, but now that Im used to it, the bike handles awesome!
Question, did you change out the garbage factory riser bushings? Going from apes, to t-bars, with stock rubber bushings, it will have too much flex, and have adverse effects on the handling.
Question, did you change out the garbage factory riser bushings? Going from apes, to t-bars, with stock rubber bushings, it will have too much flex, and have adverse effects on the handling.
#5
Ok I'm looking at the solid bushings on Lowbrow and J&P, I'm confused why solid bushings would cut down on vibration? Wouldn't the rubber be better for vibration dampening?
Also, to clarify, the 26" width makes it more difficult for me to maneuver at low speeds. I imagine it has to do with torque and the closer you move your hands inward, the less leverage you have over the front end...but I'm a small guy anyway so...guess I should work out more?
Also, to clarify, the 26" width makes it more difficult for me to maneuver at low speeds. I imagine it has to do with torque and the closer you move your hands inward, the less leverage you have over the front end...but I'm a small guy anyway so...guess I should work out more?
#6
Ok I'm looking at the solid bushings on Lowbrow and J&P, I'm confused why solid bushings would cut down on vibration? Wouldn't the rubber be better for vibration dampening?
Also, to clarify, the 26" width makes it more difficult for me to maneuver at low speeds. I imagine it has to do with torque and the closer you move your hands inward, the less leverage you have over the front end...but I'm a small guy anyway so...guess I should work out more?
Also, to clarify, the 26" width makes it more difficult for me to maneuver at low speeds. I imagine it has to do with torque and the closer you move your hands inward, the less leverage you have over the front end...but I'm a small guy anyway so...guess I should work out more?
As far as slow speed turns, you will lose a little leveage, versus the wide bars, but my guess is, you are dealing with all the slop the factory bushings are causing. Im small a well, 5'7", about 155 lbs, but I can almost guarantee, once you put some poly bushings in, you will find the bike much easier to manage.
Heres a little test you can do..stand over the bike in the garage, hold it up right, and turn the bars side to side with some force, you will see a delay in the front end moving, relative to handlebar input. That delay is what you are fighting going through slow speed turns.
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