Umm dude it JUST happened to mine!!! If you read my original post I just had it done because mine failed at 38k. He is not full of crap, mine was breaking up and I only have 38k on it, so yes these things do fail and are not as reliable as you think. I saw it with my own eyes with pieces missing off of it and that were in the case.

Do a search on this forum, there are literally hundreds of posts like mine about them failing around the 30k mark on post-07 models.

 

.001 is not an insane value and you dont machine a crank thats out of true. Is this more info from your friend?

 

Been here a long time and there are maybe 3 07+ failures.

 

Keep thinking that....Job security for mechanics.


I just did the cam tensioners on a '10 with 15,000 miles on it and they were completely worn out.


In MOST cases they are "somewhat" better, but they are still subject to premature wear.
I would never even consider running them without at least a visual inspection every 15,000 to 20,000 miles.

 

No that's from my own research. .001 is pretty insane for Harleys from what I have seen based on what everybody who does it and posts there is. The point is to get gears you are looking at about a $2k job getting the crank fixed and putting it all together if you have a shop do it.

 

I am just ignoring you from now on. You obviously can't type in that search field up above for proof. Sound like a door to door street preacher just spouting out what you think instead of searching for truth yourself even when it's just a simple phrase and hitting enter above.

 

.001 is far from "insane for a Harley" as you say....It is however harder to attain in the later models because Harley has "cheaped" them down so badly that they can no longer guarantee realistic runout on their cranks.
The way the factory addressed the problem was to "increase the tolerance" so that the newer poorly constructed motors are "within spec".


I have an '01 Dyna that has less than .001 runout with nearly 30,000 miles on it, as they were actually designed to have before the "cheaping down" process began.

 

I am also raising the BS flag on piston skirt slap resulting from absolutely anything that exists in the cam box area. unless they ****** something up on the inner cam bearings and they are coming apart and your oil pump is sending the debris everywhere at a reduced flow/pressure because it is now destroyed and the pistons are scoring from a lack of lubrication. ill say inner bearing, incorrect sprocket shimming/alignment, preload circlip came off allowing cam to walk, packings for oil pump/support plate missing. none of these issues should occur with an experienced shop/mech. the engine went in healthy and came out sick, keep it simple.

 

I hate to think that they fcuked something up that bad....But I would tend to agree with your assessment.

 

I just got a call from them and the extended warranty company is going to cover it, so if they ****ed it up then it is paid for.

Now the hard decision comes on if I want to go ahead and have them do the machining of the cylinder and replace the piston with a larger one or plop out the $400 difference and get the S&s big bore kit instead for it. I am thinking I will do that honestly just to add more umph to the bike.

I can't seem to find a straight answer, but it sounds like I will need some better cams to handle the bigger bore though. This true or just people pushing it?