oil won't go drain into tank
#31
I think what you are missing is that the vent hose is only used to equalize the pressure between the oil tank and engine case.. It does not vent to the outside. The valves in the cylinder heads on twincams are 1 way so there when they are functioning properly, there is nothing to replace the volume of oil as it drains. You'll get some oil and it will stop when the pressure in the pressure in the engine case / oil tank drops to the point where the oil flow stops.. The drain hose/ plug long enough and small enough that air may not be able to flow back up the hose and allow the tank to drain.
Baggers and dynas will gurgle oil out oil because the drain is directly at the oil tank, but they flow better, if you pop the tank cap..
I'm not sure why you don't understand this.. It's kind like popping the plug on a fork tube and expecting all the oil to flow out without the top cap off.
Baggers and dynas will gurgle oil out oil because the drain is directly at the oil tank, but they flow better, if you pop the tank cap..
I'm not sure why you don't understand this.. It's kind like popping the plug on a fork tube and expecting all the oil to flow out without the top cap off.
If you re-read post one, cobalt probably opened up the cam galley plug in the block. This would account for at least 1/2 " on the dip stick when started up and the oil tank filled up that small sump in the galley and crank are that it uses for inner cam galley splash. It you started adding oil after doing that, it would take a quart to the very top of tank.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 07:47 AM.
#32
Come on Ripsaw; give it a rest. Debating with Max is akin to taking a knife to a gunfight; the deck is stacked against you.
You have a tendency to go way over the top in your replies sometimes which I have taken issue with in the past because you can confuse a FNG when a simple, straight forward response is all that is required. All the OP needed to do was warm the motor up, move any oil from the sump back into the tank, REMOVE THE TANK CAP and let the oil drain out. The OP finally did that and the problem was solved. Now the OP is wondering if he should run a wire up through the drain line into the tank because he might have trash in the oil tank. That's a new one on me; never heard that one before.
The oil drains faster out of my softail and my bagger with the tank cap off.
You have a tendency to go way over the top in your replies sometimes which I have taken issue with in the past because you can confuse a FNG when a simple, straight forward response is all that is required. All the OP needed to do was warm the motor up, move any oil from the sump back into the tank, REMOVE THE TANK CAP and let the oil drain out. The OP finally did that and the problem was solved. Now the OP is wondering if he should run a wire up through the drain line into the tank because he might have trash in the oil tank. That's a new one on me; never heard that one before.
The oil drains faster out of my softail and my bagger with the tank cap off.
#33
I understand the popet valves in the vent system. However, we are talking Softail. Note the second attachment in the post 27 where hose 4 goes to. This is not open to the engine vent system. Note the last paragraph in the third attachment on where this drilled passageway goes to the transmission. That is the vent. The clutch pushrod cavity is also how the primary shares that same transmission down tube vent. Now if a mud dobber has blocked that rubber vent hose on the transmission, the engine oil tank would be slow to drain with the cap where you pour oil in was not up or off but it still would gulp out like a milk jug turned upside down.
If you re-read post one, cobalt probably opened up the cam galley plug in the block. This would account for at least 1/2 " on the dip stick when started up and the oil tank filled up that small sump in the galley and crank are that it uses for inner cam galley splash. It you started adding oil after doing that, it would take a quart to the very top of tank.
If you re-read post one, cobalt probably opened up the cam galley plug in the block. This would account for at least 1/2 " on the dip stick when started up and the oil tank filled up that small sump in the galley and crank are that it uses for inner cam galley splash. It you started adding oil after doing that, it would take a quart to the very top of tank.
First off. this is an old post. Mac801 resurrected the post as cobalt had the same issue..
Look replies 18 and 19. He removed the right plug.. When he went to fill, there was still oil in the tank. If he'd removed the fuller cap the oil would have drained out.
#34
Damn Gentleman... didn't mean to start a Bar Fight. I have to admit, I wish I had the technical knowledge you all have. Or at least enough to be able to even mount an attempt at such an argument. I do know one thing for sure... I absolutely know enough to be dangerous. Like they say, don't do more in the morning than you can fix in the afternoon.
Do you all have technical training or is it all self taught, working on your own motors?
And THANK YOU DJL..... I was actually still wondering if I needed to do the wire thing. I'm a bit relieved that sounds like a definite "Negative". Very good news.
Sled is running good and I very much appreciate all the help everyone has provide. Pretty damn cool actually.
Hoooah
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