I have the rocker covers off and the rocker assembly, pushrods and lifters out of the rear cylinder. To be honest the lifters look like the B lifters that I had on the shelf. They have the same frosting on the rollers as well.

I haven't looked at the front lifters yet, I'm waiting for the lifters and gaskets. I'll give the rocker locker things some thought. Part of me doesn't like the idea of press fitting a sleeve in there that would preclude me from removing the shaft or the rocker.

If I did go with adjustable pushrods at this point can I just make them the length of the intake and exhaust solid pushrods and install them thru the top given that I have the rocker assemblies out?

One more question. I had to use a regular Allen wrench to get the back fasteners of the tappet block. Is there a better tool than that? My long ball ends just spun trying to get them out.

 

I can get to mine with a 3/8's drive Allen socket and ratchet. A lot of guys switch out the hex drive to a 12 point head and then you can use a 1/4 drive rachet and socket.

 

Thanks Hotrod

I'm gonna find out what size and thread pitch they are and replace them with 12 pt heads. Even with adjustable pushrods, the lifter blocks have to come up to get the lifters out; I'd like to make the job a little faster. I'm still thinking about the Rocker Locker thing.

 

The Rocker Lockers can be easily tapped out but you would have to remove the plate to do so. Also consider how often do you plan to remove the rocker shafts. It has been 25K miles since I last remove the rocker box covers on either of my bikes. This is not a new problem or solution. Guys have been drilling through the support plate and shaft and installing a roll pin to prevent shaft rotation for years. Using Loctite, green I think, on that end of the rocker shaft to create a "lock" between shaft and plate has also been used. The most popular method was drilling and installing a set screw through the plate to lock the shaft. The shaft is case hardened so drilling all the way through requires better machine tools than most of us have in the garage. However, drilling and tapping the plate and using a carbide bit to create a "dimple" in the shaft for the set screw to settle into is something most DIY guys are equipped to do. Take a look at the attached photo and you will see what I mean. An alternative to the Rocker Lockers but the plate still has to be removed to remove the shafts.

If you install adjustable pushrods, you should take advantage of the adjustability and set preload at about .130".

Replace the lifter box covers with the 12 point bolts; available from Alloy Boltz and you can use a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket; did that many years ago on both my bikes. Those bolts are 1/4" x 20 x .875" long; you can find sets on Ebay for about $35 but I think you can buy 8 bolts and washers from Alloy Boltz cheaper. Don't by chrome, buy polished G8.

 

Thanks guys.

I'm going to order 16 tappet block bolts from Alloy Boltz later this morning; a set for the Touring model and the Dyna. They list 3/4" bolts which would be a little short; will that work? My bolts measure .899" from the bottom of the washer to the end. I pulled the other rocker assembly and don't have any witness marks on the bolts from where they contact the groove on the shaft. Additionally, the shaft doesn't rotate and if I wanted it out I'd probably need to drive it out with a punch. I realize that the aluminum rocker assembly is probably gonna expand more than the shaft itself, so there could be play in there at operating temps. I looked at the Rocker Locker and it seems to be a good product. I may get some and install them or just let it go given the absence of witness marks on the bolts. I have a friend with a complete machine shop. I could do the set screw thing but that "I think one of them came out" could be too much for my worry meter I looked at it and if I were really gonna do that (or ask my friend to) I'd look at putting the screws in from the bottom. That way if they backed out, it's not gonna go anywhere.

I looked into drilling the oil return holes and decided not to do it. I don't have any trouble with excessive oil coming out the rerouted breather tube (based on I don't have to add oil) so I'm hesitant to mess with something that isn't causing a problem.

I'm waiting on my gaskets and O rings and after this morning the tappet bolts. I will probably do the adjustable pushrods when I do the 103 upgrade in 30K (which will take the 96" to just over 100K miles) to save a little time during the lifter changes and to add pre-load if needed. I'm distrustful of the screw and lock nut thing without good reason, despite doing hundreds of Airhead valve adjustments.

I replaced the battery strap with one I had laying around (the one to lift it out) because the original broke. Six bucks for a replacement from HD; like the one that broke before?
I also tided up some wires that made removing the tank take a little longer than it should have. With no crossover, it's really kinda quick. It did create some good work space and was worth it.

I'm going to post some pics of the old lifters later. I remember exactly where I was when those things started making noise. The bike had 10K miles on it and we had just pulled up to the Mayberry Inn in Mt Airy, NC. I started the bike to move it and it had a clatter that I'd never heard before. I rode home (at the end of the trip) and took it by the dealer; got the "they all do that" so I've been riding it ever since. Before that day that was one quiet engine.

Again, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the schooling.

 

OK here are some pics

Rocker assemblies removed


Pushrods and Tappet blocks removed


All my parts laid out


Lifters going from your left to right. Rear exhaust, Rear Intake, Front Intake & Front Exhaust




Scoring on front intake. The oil port in the cases seems OK, no scoring in the bore.



B Lifter on top, ? lifter that came out of the bike.



Pushrod cup end of lifter out of the bike.



I have all the holes covered with clean rags so nothing can fall in. The front tappet block gasket was stuck on the engine case so I packed the lifter bores and passages with a clean rag (so nothing would drop in if the gasket broke apart) and carefully removed it.

I'm not gonna be able to go to Ocala on Tuesday, damnit.

 

I got my bike done today and took it for a short test ride. I'll ride it tomorrow more but it seems like I did everything correctly.

I installed the Comp Cams 850-1 lifters and new stock pushrods. I haven't tallied up the parts but I don't have much money in it.

The engine is much quieter and now I have piece of mind that a lifter isn't going to fail (at least I hope not) on a road trip. I have to admit I've never cut pushrods and put in adjustables so I can't say how quick a job like that is. But I've pulled the rocker covers and assemblies out a few times and I really don't see it as lot of work. That said, I'm not paid on an hourly rate working on my, or my friend's, machines.

Thanks for the help fellas, had it not been for you I would have thrown those B lifters in and called it good. I feel better knowing I have new parts in there now.

 

Glad to hear all is quiet. Ride safe and enjoy........