My son has a 2014 Street glide that he was building up before he was deployed overseas. It currently has the S&S big bore kit (103 to 110 ) , S&S 585 cams, performance head pipe(no cat) and a dynojet tuner. After the build it ,dyno"d at 107hp/128TQ He was wondering if ported/polished heads and a bigger throttle body would yield more HP & TQ. He figured while the bike is not being rode much , it would be a great time to finish his build . Also , is it beneficial to send the stock heads off to have the work done, or buy new heads that are ready to go? Throttle body , screamin eagle or something else? I will not be doing the work ,so any advice would be helpful .

 

Ported heads will help the HP come up and sending the OEM heads out for work to be compatible with the rest of the build would be the way to go. A couple of head porters frequent this forum and would be happy to discuss the project with you. Scott/Hillside Cycles and Kirby/VeeTwin Performance.

At 107HP (ported heads will add more) the duty cycle of the OEM injectors may be tapped out and a set of hi-flow injectors might be in order. IIRC, the SE 58mm T/B, PN 27200029 will work with '14 up touring models that have been upgraded with the 110 kit. Not sure about that but worth checking into.

 

I'm sure heads and TB will help. Probably 5 to 8 hp. Havin the heads done will help. Don't forget WFO Larry..

 

Max is right, I should have included WFO Larry, AKA Larry's Motorcycle Machine.

 

Make sure the combustion chambers are properly sized to achieve 10.5 compression to maximize the cam..

 

I'd run it at 10.8.

 

he could, CCP might be a tad over 200. I've had 47 ivc set to 10.8.. just watch the tune..

 

headwork & a HPI 58mm t body will make a huge difference,should put hp in the 120 area

 

Is he looking for speed or quickness? If he never goes much over 120mph which most people don't, a gearing change is by far the best thing he could do for quickness at a fraction of the cost of headwork and a throttle body that still wouldn't keep to it with just a gearing change. As much as a 13% increase to rear wheel torque across the entire rpm range.
Best thing I did to my 100hp 103. Takes a whole lot bigger build to even get glimpse of my tail light running light to light or in the twisties.
These things are geared for low rpm highway cruising.
He can spend a couple grand on headwork and a TB and he MIGHT keep up with my 100hp engine.

There's a number of different ways to go about this. All way cheaper and more effective than headwork and a TB.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...p-to-13-a.html


The older TC88s gained 19% rear wheel torque going from a 24 tooth primary sprocket to a 21 tooth.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...et-change.html

I changed my 34 tooth compensator to a 30 tooth sprocket from Evolution Industries since the compensator was shot anyway. It comes with a new, shorter chain. The stock adjuster or adjuster of your choice can be used. How much power to the rear wheel I gained I'm not sure yet but it's significant. At least 6% across the board. Can't get it on a dyno til the end of June. All I can say is I cruise 70mph in 6th gear @ 3000rpm. Right at the beginning of my power band with the S&S 570s and I'm always on my cams now. Just twist and go.

Highly recommended by Bob Woods for anyone wanting a quick off the line, light to light bar hopper along with top end hp cams like your buddy's 585s btw.

https://www.evolution-industries.com...or-eliminator/

 

We favor that T-Man 660-PS-2 in a lot of 110" builds, as that .585 can/will be sluggish off the bottom, at least from our observations.
Another one was finalized last Friday, and ready for tuning this week, this one was an actual CVO 110", with a 58mm now, our Stage I CVO Heads, and we will stay with his Thunderheader......should be a bell-ringer!
With our Stage III Super-Tour Heads, and a larger t/body, we constantly see numbers that hover around the 130/130 mark, with STRONG torque delivery.
Another ***-kicker is a Wood 408-6, set up accordingly.
Scott