They run higher by about .001 in cases than on V-blocks, just my experience checking my last one done by rev performance. They do great work and good turn around for time. I have had 2 cranks done by them one with new rods and one didn't need them but they get all new bearings. Mine was already Timken set up .

Second didn't need done at all just did for piece of mind and had other bike to ride so wasn't in rush. Only making 90Hp but should be good for 100,000 miles.

 

Sorry, what?

 

I guess I'm a
saying send it to rev performance if you want piece of mind.

 

Ok thanks

 

He's saying the crank runout is .001 different in the engine than it was when checked on a precision machined testing bench.

 

yes and that too.

 

Mine was .004 when I did my 110." I'm sure it wouldn't of held up to 130#'s of torque for long. I bit the bullet, and ordered a Darkhorse M.O.W. crank. With Veteran's discount, it ended up being less than $1,400. Pinion .0008, sprocket .0005. Cam support plate, .0008. I doubt I could do much better. Also had the Timken conversion done.

 

Since am doing the work myself I'll spend the money on a S&S crankshaft. Bearing conversion included. I like buying American made parts. Cost more but most of the time you get your moneys worth. S&S has been around since 1958. Looked at the 124 kit they offer but decided to go with the 110 kit instead. Reliability is what I am looking at. The 110 kit requires no changes to the stock cases. Just my choice but this thread is very interesting.

 

Lots of the 4" cylinders in 100" and 110" performance builds with no issues; liner is high strength material. Everybody thought the thin OEM spigots when boring to 98" started but 8 or so years later, those cylinders are holding up as well.

 

Well hell, if you’re boring the cases and getting a new crank, get a stroker crank and some 124 cyls. You’ll smile every time you crack the throttle. I do on mine :-)