After a long 2 1/2 years I finally settled my personal injury claim from a semi rollover crash that nearly killed me. Besides paying it off, I'm tearing my '13 Heritage Classic down one last time to do it all and make it as bullet proof as possible. I'm not going all out on the top end but I am doing a 107BB, probably keeping the S&S 570s, freshening up and porting the heads, most likely need new injectors, possibly intake, beefing up the clutch, and last but not least having DarkHorse do the crank. I'm debating whether or not I should send them the whole bottom end and do the Timken conversion or just do the crank itself.
I know a lot of guys feel the stock roller bearing is fine and I tend to agree. However, it IS a B motor so there's the balancer to consider and I'm running the 30 tooth solid sprocket from Evolution Industries.
Thoughts?

 

It's no longer Timken, they sold to a Japanese company. But they're still good.
They'll be in there anyway, so change it. Shouldn't add more than $50 bucks to
the total cost, material and labor.

 

Well but there is more cost. If not for the Timken Bearing I wouldn't even ship them the cases. I'd split them myself and just send the crank. The other option is the Jims kit and doing the Timken conversion myself. Not sure that would save me much tho.

 

I don't know how necessary it is. Timken's or tapered bearing have their place and are great for axial load, but seems like a roller bearing does better with radial load. Where does axial load come into play with a flywheel?

 

Darkhorse charges $350 for the Timken conversion; maybe an upcharge for the additionla labor to deal with counter balancers, not sure as i have never sent them a set of softail cases.

When I built my last 98" motor for my '05 FXSTD, I debated spending the $$ for shipping out the cases which, IIRC, ran about $150 out and back but truly don't recall. I talked i over with a local bulder/tuner (tuned the build for me when done) that has built a ton of these motor and he agreed that the Timken was not "required" for my application but, of course, the desicion was mine to make. I sent the crank assembly to Darkhorse to T/B and plug and I opted for the "Lefty" bearing on both ends fo the crank. I ride the bike hard, have a Pingle shifter and will engage in a street race on occassion but don't do burnouts, wheelies or stupid stuff but I don't have tons of miles on the build but I think it will hold up just fine at 115/115.

 

$2800 total and I'm not sure what if any of that is counterbalance related. Does anyone know if there's anything to look at/upgrade/service related to the counterbalance while I'm in there? Haven't looked at it in the service manual yet.

 

Bearings, chain, guides, tensioner shoes....... Or if you are getting a balanced flywheel. Take them out.

 

Short Block Charlie used to offer a service to lighten and match the the rotating counter balancer weights as well as TIG weld the sprocket to the crank. Don't know how much it costs, what the results are or if SBC still offers the service; just thought it interesting. Old Hot Bike article from 2009 for entertainment. I wonder if anyone ever had it done.

https://www.hotbikeweb.com/twin-cam-...r-mods#page-12

 

I was wondering about that sprocket looking at the service manual last night. Seems it would be a good idea to be sure it can't move.

 

Darkhorse will do it.