I've upgraded my 2014 103 to a 124. Used my cases, S&S cylinders, 120R heads massaged over, CR630i cams, S&S lifters and cam plate/oil pump. I still have that noted Twin Cam tick emanating from the from head area.

Only part that is the same from the 103 (besides cases) are the rocker arms. My stock 103 rocker arms were used in the new heads. Rockouts were added during the build.

Given that info - what could be causing that same 'ol ticking noise? I've read a bunch of posts on folks replacing rocker arms to no success at eliminating the tick. Dunno.

Caveat: ran into a guy who had built his own ~130ish Twin cam using S&S cylinders, heads and a ... Fueling 590 (?) cam. A true hot rod bike, and no tick. Only the slight sewing machine noise. Don't know enough about his build, but will find out more next time I am in his area.

 

I have a 2014 flhtk with a 103 engine It has a cycle rama 570 cam and a S&S stealth air cleaner I have what I thought was a lifter tick . After changing lifters and installing rocker lockouts and trying to find where my tick was coming from. It had this tick at certain RPMs so I finally found my tick was from the throttle body gears caused mainly from the cams overlap. Hope this helps

 

Rocker arm clearance,end play . There's a bunch of videos on how the shim the rocker arms to reportedly get rid of one if the many causes of" twin cam tick". I haven't done it personally but I think I will give it a try this winter...done correctly it won't hurt anything to try.

 

I would not shim rocker arms. I don't trust a shim that thin required to bring up to spec. If too much rocker end play, measure compare rocker arm lengths. If same, then replace rocker support plate. If end play is good, check, maybe replace rocker arm AND shaft with new

Check all the other usual suspects

 

It is the opinion of many engine builders that rocker arem end play has little to do with noise but many have tried. I have tried it once; had a friend true up the ends or the rocker arms in a lathe and set them up so a .010" or .015" shim would leave .003"-.005" end play; made no difference at all but a fun experiment and I didn't have to wonder about it anymore. Shimming rocker arms, I believe, is a hold over from the shovel days as it was not uncommon back in the day.

Should you proceed, do some reading on this and other forums; it will help inform your decision. Measure at operating temps; in the operating conditiaon. SS shims only and nothing less than .010"; anything thinner can wear down, break and find it's way down a pushrod tube; bad juju. Shim the unloaded non-thrust side. JMHO but I am not sure the rocker arm moves side to side since they are loaded to the thrust side all the time.

IIRC, OEM allowable end play is .011"-.013" and replacement recommended if .025" or more. Anyway, if you take on the project please post the procedure used and results. I would love to hear from someone I trust that did it and got satisfacory results.

 

Add me to the list that have tried it with zero improvement.

No doubt those that claim success actually changed something else in the process unknowingly.

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All the time or when it's hot / cold?

What pushrods? What version lifters? What pushrods? (need more than just brand here). Tensioners or gears?

 

Both cold and hot
S&S Quickees
S&S Premiums
Tensioners

Adjusted the lifters to .140 (from .125). A little more quiet, but still noisy. Rain and work commitments have prevented any notable riding. Will report back after I ride a bit more.

 

Still running the stock springs on the 120R heads?

 

No, but I don't have the spring details. Builder mentioned he has not had clearance issues using this cam/spring combination.