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Crank trouble

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Old May 2, 2023 | 08:24 AM
  #1  
Abandoned's Avatar
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Default Crank trouble

Ok, let me try to make a long story short. I did some upgrades on my 06 dyna. Mostly upgrading the cam chest which led to further but that's another story. After I got everything together and started it for the first time it sounded good for a minute. But once I shut it down and restarted it, it had a strange noise and wouldn't stay running past the initial fast idle. I took the cam chest apart again and found that the new oil pump gear was broke into pieces on top of that the small gear was wedged onto the crank. Almost like it rotated slightly on the crank and was now stuck. I was able to get the small gear and the oil pump off the crank. But now mu issue is I cannot get the new oil pump onto the crankshaft. Almost feels like there is a burr or the edge is slightly out of shape not allowing the pump to go back on? I did a runout test and It's about .013 out. Any ideas what could have caused this and is there anything that can be done to save it?



 
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Old May 2, 2023 | 08:51 AM
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From: georgia
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.013 out is not acceptable. Sorry, but you need to address the shifted crank issue. Darkhorse or new S&S are the options I would consider.
 
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Old May 2, 2023 | 09:31 AM
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Is it possible that when you installed the cam plate that the feed pump inner rotor was lined up with the crank? Crank was true before? Either way it's cranks time..
 
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Old May 2, 2023 | 09:59 AM
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My guess is that you put the pump and plate back on as a unit. They weren't seated 100% and the gyrators weren't aligned. As you torqued down the cam plate the pressure cracked that smaller gyrator. You may or may not have heard a "pop" as you were cranking it down but that was it breaking. I don't know this because I'm smart or some mechanical guru I know this because I did this once...yes just once lol. Had the same exact result as you. Didn't bugger up my crank as much as yours and I only had .003 runout at the time but it was a ticking time bomb and later that season I was putting in a man o war crank from darkhorse. It's possible your crank can be fixed but after sending mine in it was going to be about the same cost to rebuild verses buying a new one. With .013 runout it needed help either way. Live and learn it just sucks when those lessons cost so much and cut into riding time. Silver lining is now is your chance to build a better motor.
 
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Old May 2, 2023 | 10:10 AM
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Well I kinda figured it was gonna be time to upgrade the crank, but I wanted to make sure there was no alternative. Hate having to spend the money, but it's not doing me any good just sitting on the lift. Guess i'll be doing some shopping.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2023 | 10:15 PM
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Yep, I did a stage 2 on my 06 TC (551 S&S cams) at which time the crank had about .002 runout. Nice improvement but not long after, I wanted to go big bore and checked the runout again to find it had about .006 runout, too much for my beloved gear timed and in either case I knew it had to be dealt with. This is a great time to get more cubes so I went to S&S 4.375 stroke crank, and punched it out to 3.875 bore. I love the extra cubes and I'm rid of the limp dick scissoring HD crank. Now Dyno'd 102.5 hp and 113.95 ft lb with new 585 cams. Only thing I'd do different next time is MORE cubes while I'm at it!
The only thing that replaces cubic inches, is more cubic inches.
Good luck mate
 

Last edited by skills; Jun 2, 2023 at 10:21 PM.
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