A 30T trans pulley will help that high RPM cam.

 

Yes, I have learned a lot about my HD dealership's capabilities and practices with this adventure.

But your last paragraph intrigues me. What is it about a "B" (balanced) engine that prompts you to ask why I would put a high rpm cam into it?

Forgive me if it's a dumb question - this is my 40th bike, but only my 2nd Harley.

Jim G

 

Yes, I tried to go down that road. In fact, a 29T would be better given the change in operating rpm due to the cam.

I am told though that changing the final drive on the latest generation of Harley's is very costly (requires new belt and belt and swingarm removal to get it done), and also makes the speedo inaccurate, with no easy fix to that.

A change in primary drive sounded easier and way less costly to me.I would need a 6 to 13% smaller compensator sprocket or a 6 to 13% larger transmission input sprocket, or some combination of smaller compensator sprocket with larger trans input sprocket that gives a 6 to 13% ratio change overall. This would NOT make the speedometer inaccurate, as the change in gearing occurs upstream of the vehicle speed sensor.

BUT the HD dealer says there are no parts out there to achieve, say, a 6 to 13% overall gear ratio change. I assume they meant "HD" parts, so I have begun to look for non-HD parts. I emailed Baker in fact to ask if Baker has a solution that would work.

With the stock gearing, 1st gear is ridiculously tall, peaking out at 51 mph at the 6200 rpm rev limit. That hurts the ability of the bike to accelerate through 1st, and more importantly it makes it necessary to slip the clutch in executing normally tight 90 degree city intersection turns, since even the "idle" speed of 1000 rpm = 8.3 mph is too fast for really tight turns, especially with gravel or diesel fuel deposits on the pavement. I'd really like the top end of 1st to be more like 45 mph.

But, I haven't found a source for the required parts to make the gearing change.

Any suggestions?

Jim G

 

all goes back to my points in other threads about this subject. Numbers are numbers and unless you have pristine conditions and pristine components during that build and tuning time, they will be flawed one way or the other. It's more important to look at the curves than that of the numbers IMO. My numbers look good.. do I have 100% confidence in them, no. Do I believe what I feel sitting on the seat and twisting the throttle, absolutely. Do I believe those curves are what I'm feeling on that seat, absolutely. Ask the girl I ran with on Sunday who rides a 13 CVO streetglide. Talk talk talk talk about how fast that bike was and how good she was at riding it at high speeds. Guess who took off before me, and guess who was dragging up the rear when the smoke cleared. At 115MPH, a twist of the throttle told me she had even more to give. I couldn't be happier by listening to what these experienced guys had to say to me when deciding I was going to conquer this quest.

But for arguments sake let's say the numbers are real (and what I was getting at in your other thread about this). I spent 8 hours of my time, $400 on a great dyno from Ed, $400 on heads, $300 on cams/gaskets/bearings, $200 on lifters. This is above and beyond the exhaust and A/C setup as that expense will be there regardless of which way you go. So $1300 - $1400, a little time on my part, a lot of questions to guys like Scott, Kirby, Bob, and Jim, a great learning experience, and I'm $1500 + labor ahead of the game and a bike that according to numbers does better than that Stage IV race kit at more than twice the price.

My point is listen to the builders and tuners.. Harley is out to sell parts and they're very good at it, tuners and builders know the combinations that work.

To your point though, yes it's BS that they're allowed to make these ( I won't call them false) "inflated" claims.

 

Yours points are valid, but:

- My bike is brand new. I'm not ready to give up warranty support, and past experience with my dealer tells me they are very good on warranty support for good customers

- I can't currently do work myself, because I have no garage at the cabin we currently rent and live in, the driveway is gravel and caliche (a mix of clay and sand that is both slippery and abrasive at the same time) and has a 7% grade

- I thought I was buying a proven "package" that could be done by my local dealer with minimal fuss (Took the bike in on Thursday, got it back Monday)

- I just started a high stress contract job so really wanted "simple"

- I thought I could actually believe what HD publishes in its catalog.I'll know better for next time

Jim G

 

unfortunately for guys/customers like you, and believe me I understand the whole warranty thing, this is the key piece to it all "I'll know better for next time." Because at this point HD has your $ already so they've been successful in what they set out to do which is sell you parts.

I go up to Austin and the Hill Country a lot so yeah I feel your pain with the driveway situation and such. Long as I'm on blacktop over there I'm happy. the minute I have to get off, my *** is puckered big time!

The past few bikes I bought, when I bought them, I as well as the dealer knew they would never be back in their shop(s) for anything. When I drive off the lot, it's assumed (by me) that the bike is no longer in warranty. If it breaks, I'll fix it.

 

The B motors in softails don't spool up the rpms as well as rubber mounted ones. The counter balancers on the B motor rob some power but mainly it's the high rpm vibration that makes going over 5000 rpm not smooth like rubber mounts. My WG feels at home hitting 6000 while the softail at 5000 feels like it needs to shift. Thats why I thought the cam change to make a low end/mid range grunt ride would be more fun and that's where you ride and shift anyways. When you're shifting aggressively thru the gears just keep your eye on the tach, I bet you're between 3750 and 4800 rpm when getting on it most of the time, right where a broader mid range cam lives. You would gain 10 plus ft lbs if you did I bet. Especially with that great low/mid range D & D pipe.

 

You probably lost your warranty the second the race kit was installed.
I was told( I know , I know) by my dealer that they want a snap shot of your ecm with sn#, taken with the street legal map showing and it being dated the same time that the invoice shows the street legal kit being installed. Don't know if this is fact but it wouldn't surprise me at all. Maybe its hogwash, I don't know.

 

A rather lengthly thread to say a great tune on a dyno by a great tuner is a lovely thing indeed. Plus the bonus message that you should not believe everything your salesman says. I have yet to hear or see a sales pitch that did not speak in hyperbole about their product, never been sent elsewhere to buy better.

 

Most any of the "crossed flags" parts negates the warranty if they desir, as far as I know.
I think some of it depends on the dealer, and if they are willing to fudge warranty claims(trust me, it happens) for the sake of keeping their guys busy, and the customer happy.
Scott