shifter pawl spring
Like this little tidbit here!!
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-look-big.html
I have learned that wandering off of the EVO path here is fraught with many pitfalls, to include the ignoramus, the flaming arsehole, and the myshitisbetterthanyourshit. It's much calmer here.
once I figured out my shift pawl spring is a newer design that doesn't break like its predecessor, I decided to leave it alone. I did need to replace the circlip that holds the pawl assembly in place; just a 2 buck part at the dealer. Got there early and they were serving free pancakes, so that made the trip to get the clip a wash. Somebody even rang the bell while I was there, (for a new Sreetglide). Now back down to the garage and get back on the re-assembly.
You should try wandering off sometimes... it's fun ****in with the twinkie riders. The ones who are in here are ok dudes though. Some get it, some don't.
I now have a few stalkers that like to msg me telling me to stay out of the twinkie forums. so I must be doing a good job over there
some how I screwed up the pawl seal during installation. The case hole is 1/4 inch deep and the seal is also 1/4 inch, meaning it should be flush with the case when installed. Then a flat washer, then the circlip. Mine was not flush, and with the washer, you couldn't even see the slot for the circlip. Pulled it back out and noticed the circular inner seal retainer spring was hosed...so back to dealer for another. Got the first replacement from my indy, exact same as what was in there (black rubber coated with small spring). At the dealer, they gave me a metal seal, with just a small rubber ring in the center for the splined shaft. Not the same as what came out; plus it was smaller width ! At least that will solve the depth issue, but I can't figure out why the first one stuck out so far. I skinned the first one with Yamabond 4, but that was rubber-to-metal case. With this new metal seal, should I go in dry, or maybe use locktite green? I had the parts guy check, and Evo's back to even 93 still called for the same metal seal.
some how I screwed up the pawl seal during installation. The case hole is 1/4 inch deep and the seal is also 1/4 inch, meaning it should be flush with the case when installed. Then a flat washer, then the circlip. Mine was not flush, and with the washer, you couldn't even see the slot for the circlip. Pulled it back out and noticed the circular inner seal retainer spring was hosed...so back to dealer for another. Got the first replacement from my indy, exact same as what was in there (black rubber coated with small spring). At the dealer, they gave me a metal seal, with just a small rubber ring in the center for the splined shaft. Not the same as what came out; plus it was smaller width ! At least that will solve the depth issue, but I can't figure out why the first one stuck out so far. I skinned the first one with Yamabond 4, but that was rubber-to-metal case. With this new metal seal, should I go in dry, or maybe use locktite green? I had the parts guy check, and Evo's back to even 93 still called for the same metal seal.
Attachment 413206
Attachment 413206
the original seal is metal I use Loctite 290 green it has excellent wicking properties. when installing the new seal if it bends or scratches the metal the Loctite will fill those voids it only takes a few drops on that seal
Thanks Dale, I know I have red and blue, gotta check if I've even got any of the green.
With the shorter metal seal, insert 'til it bottoms out, or stop when it's flush with the outside of the case?
With the shorter metal seal, insert 'til it bottoms out, or stop when it's flush with the outside of the case?
Last edited by SeaZund; Jan 11, 2015 at 11:01 AM.










