Well rear suspension was replaced when I first bought it 5 years ago. Using a 1 inch shorter SG air ride. And it seems no matter what the setting they ride solid on the road and give quite a jarring when they hit a bad hole in the road.

I will say after returning to the scene of the accident that the pot holed road with multiple patches left much residue of crumbled asphalt that I believe was responsible for the momentary lock up. I would even venture to say I probably braked quite hard too seeing the side of the car right in front of me. The Metzler 888 on the rear is still in good condition.

The old braking system on the '86 is not even close to today's much more updated versions. Again another reason to consider the safety margin of a newer bike.

Seems there is no 1 single answer to the number of factors involved. I've been a cycle rider for a all of 43 years, and only about 5 years experience on a heavy Tour Glide.

I'm really going to miss my '86, but there seems to be a good number of benefits to cutting my losses and find a new owner who is willing to ride her the way she is.

I truly believe that had that rear wheel not locked and I had to back off and reapply the brakes I would not have had the collision. Hindsight is always clearer. I did become transfixed on the car and I could have possible dodged the accident if I had steered into the oncoming lane. But to this day I still couldn't say if there was another oncoming car or not. These things happen so fast. I don't even know how I wound up on the ground with my helmet off, nor do I remember the moment my ribs broke.

I appreciate all the different angles this conversation is taking. You guys give me a lot to think about.

 

Johnny, there isn't anything to be gained by trying to reconstruct what happened. The mechanics of it have too many variables. Yes, all HD rear suspensions are crap. Yes, the road surface afforded no braking traction. Your actions (what you do recall) were all the result of what you have learned on two wheels.
The way you feel is normal also. Just get back on that horse, whether it is the one that threw you, or a fresh one without these memories.
Good Luck
(Been there also)

 

I did some quick searching and performance machine makes six piston calipers for your bike. Roland sands makes 13" rotors for your bike, which is a couple of inches larger than stock. These items alone are shockingly expensive by the time you add it all up.

Stainless Steele braided brake lines will improve braking by not allowing expansion of the lines under pressure. If your brake hoses are original they should be replaced regardless because they can start to come apart on the inside and still look fine on the outside.

I haven't looked if they make one for your bike or not but larger bore master cylinders will also improve braking. At the minimum, do a leak / pressure test on each master cylinder and either replace them or rebuild them with a kit.

It gets real easy to spend a lot of money on brakes, but then again look at how much we spend on engine upgrades, chrome, wheels, exhausts etc. which do nothing to improve safety.

At the end of the day though, loose surfaces such as gravel or crumbled asphalt are next to impossible to stop in a controlled manner in an emergency.

The fact that your suspension is jarring your back means that something is not right or at least is an area that can be improved. I personally am against lowered bikes because it reduces suspension travel which reduces ride quality and can contribute to loss of control in some situations. You mentioned the bike was lowered. I would start there. Get back to stock height suspension. If it feels too tall, get a lower seat or gave your seat cut down.

Also look at tire pressure. This has a greater effect on a bike than it does a car.

 

I'd update the shocks and convert the front and back to Brembo's

 

I have or have owned 2 EVO FL's, and 4 TC FL's, the last 2 with ABS. IMHO it is a no brainer. ABS enables you to maintain control in a panic stop. I also believe you can stop in a shorter amount of time all things considered. You will hear and read that this is not the case. I beg to differ. In most of all cases, you will be able to stop in a shorter distance, and IN CONTROL. This includes stopping on compromised road surfaces. It is not perfect, or the be all end all, but the technology is coming along. I read that a certain manufacturer has mitigated the whatever the problem is with leaning and applying ABS. In real life, I can ride faster and more agressively with more confidence. (not that it was intended for, but.. ) I love my 98 and won't give it up, but ABS is the ticket...

 

" I love my 98 and won't give it up, but ABS is the ticket..."

and I agree 100%

 

Theoretically you are right if the firmware is designed perfectly, but manufacturers design it with several different scenarios in mind. The difference is how much and how close braking can occure to the tire locking threashold. A computer waits for the tire to lock, and then releases. The human however can inticipate the locking point and vary the braking to never reach the locking point. That little bit of difference adds up in feet.

I saw this demonstrated in 2009 with the local police department and state highway patrol riding new 2009 RKs. The Highway patrol bikes had ABS while the police bikes did not. They did several runs side-by-side with several different riders and the non-ABS bike stopped quicker on every run.

Of course those well trained riders who are required to practice their braking a lot. I agree that ABS is safter for us mire mortals who would likely lock up on a panic stop.

Beary