Got my new ignition and reading it over, only two wires, blue and white, says to go to coil. I thought maybe it would plug right in to the three wire Oem plug to module, instructions don't talk about swapping out this style ignition ONLY points swap. So I made a tech call and he explained to me.

The module and the voes gets eliminated and the white and blue wires from new go to new "5" ohm coil included along with the white power lead already there (12 v ). Centrifugal advance was purchased separately and replaces the tin cup screwed into the cam.

Install this weekend while it rains again, hope this will be a good thing I'm doing here for reliability and performance. If I don't notice any change at all I will be happy with not wondering when my 1985 ignition will say ,"that's it,I'm done, thirty years is enough".
Just need to time it perfectly and I'm sure all will be fine.

 

Mine plugged right in to the oem but gave the option to use or not use the voes

 

Not a Dyna-S don't...
I doubt very much there will be any difference at all in performance...Dyna-S, Factory Electronic, or even, Points...Only difference will really be the timing...controlled by the installer.
BTW That goes for Single Fire/Dual Fire as well...Matters not what folks Claim, Take it to the Dyno, or Dragstrip...Prove it.

 

I went to my parts list and this is what I have

Dynatek 2000P DD2000-HD2EP ignition module

 

We're talking street bikes here - electronic over points any day!

 

I don't know about performance except for starting.
Ever since I installed my Dynatek 200P my bike starts much easier.

As an experiment I put the stock ignition module back in and once again it was hard to start.

YMMV

 

And this is a Dyna-S
Apples and Tomatoes

I didn't bring up Performance...the OP did, and we have more Street Bikes at the Harley Drags than full on DragBikes anyway...these guys don't "Guess" tho.

Helpfull stuff right there. Good Verification too...good enough for me. I don't know how it can happen that way...but, it is enough that it did.
If I was going away from OE electronic iggy, It would be with Dyna [Dynatek electronic, or Dyna 2000, not Dyna-S]...Not the "knock-off" either. But, the Dyna-S has served me well. Long as you Maintain the Mechanical advance...religiously. Matters not where it came from...it is Crap...Been thru lots of them. Very much the Downside of the Dyna-S or Points...

 

Dyna S is simple and very reliable.
Your advance curve is now mechanical, use the 35* advance mark and open the weights to static time to get started, then mark the plate and do *** and ears adjustment.
Valve float is now your rev limiter.
Be careful that the bolt head for the advance unit does not touch when you install the cover.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/me...ce-rivera.html

 

Glide, did you change the springs to set the curve the way you like it? Curious if you have any documentation that shows the curve to the rpm range... Do you know when you're art full advance? I'm Thinking you would need a dial back timing light to see where you're at.

 

Thanks Shcex, HOT ROD I'm having trouble reading your post with that avitar !! No documentation, gonna use springs that came on the unit unless a swap is needed. Instructions said how to time it then use strobe light to tweet timing at 2000 rpms.