Switching bars cost
So yeah, currently my bike doesn't have the wires going through my bars. I really want the original mini apes that I think came with my model.
I think the owner before me just put new bars on, and didn't adjust wires. So perhaps going stock will be easier?
Finally, is there any safety concerns with not putting the wires through the bars?
I think the owner before me just put new bars on, and didn't adjust wires. So perhaps going stock will be easier?
Finally, is there any safety concerns with not putting the wires through the bars?
So yeah, currently my bike doesn't have the wires going through my bars. I really want the original mini apes that I think came with my model.
I think the owner before me just put new bars on, and didn't adjust wires. So perhaps going stock will be easier?
Finally, is there any safety concerns with not putting the wires through the bars?
I think the owner before me just put new bars on, and didn't adjust wires. So perhaps going stock will be easier?
Finally, is there any safety concerns with not putting the wires through the bars?
If you do not need longer cables and wiring and don't mind external wiring it can be done in an hour ($90), new poly handlebar bushings would be highly recommended. If you need new cables, wiring extended and run internally you are looking at 8-9 hours labor plus parts. On average an ape job at my shop runs $1200; we have done them for closer to $1000 and some as much as $2000. It all depends on what you want parts wise....
Replaced my bars and ran wires internally. Took less than 2 hours.
Looks much better! Much easier than anticipared...
Cost: About a beer and a half.
I just went through this a couple months ago. There's nothing particularly tricky about it. Just a fair amount of fiddly stuff.
I had a thread going on my swap. There may or may not be some useful info there for you.
In my case, the only thing that made it hard was operating on a tight timeline. Getting parts delivered when I needed them was the biggest problem.
In the end, it all came together and i couldn't be happier with the result. It's like having a new bike.
On my FLHTC, working around the batwing is always a bit of a pain. I've done a lot of electronics assembly, so soldering in the wiring extensions was no biggie. Had to lift the tank to get access to replace the throttle and idle cables (Be sure to ziptie then in place. Mine rattled like the devil until I figured that one out). Was able to get the cover off the trans by just loosening the exhaust. (You'll need a new gasket here). Pieced together the brake lines using Russell components. Used rubber tubing to determine the various lengths I needed.
I had a thread going on my swap. There may or may not be some useful info there for you.
In my case, the only thing that made it hard was operating on a tight timeline. Getting parts delivered when I needed them was the biggest problem.
In the end, it all came together and i couldn't be happier with the result. It's like having a new bike.
On my FLHTC, working around the batwing is always a bit of a pain. I've done a lot of electronics assembly, so soldering in the wiring extensions was no biggie. Had to lift the tank to get access to replace the throttle and idle cables (Be sure to ziptie then in place. Mine rattled like the devil until I figured that one out). Was able to get the cover off the trans by just loosening the exhaust. (You'll need a new gasket here). Pieced together the brake lines using Russell components. Used rubber tubing to determine the various lengths I needed.
I just went through this a couple months ago. There's nothing particularly tricky about it. Just a fair amount of fiddly stuff.
I had a thread going on my swap. There may or may not be some useful info there for you.
In my case, the only thing that made it hard was operating on a tight timeline. Getting parts delivered when I needed them was the biggest problem.
In the end, it all came together and i couldn't be happier with the result. It's like having a new bike.
On my FLHTC, working around the batwing is always a bit of a pain. I've done a lot of electronics assembly, so soldering in the wiring extensions was no biggie. Had to lift the tank to get access to replace the throttle and idle cables (Be sure to ziptie then in place. Mine rattled like the devil until I figured that one out). Was able to get the cover off the trans by just loosening the exhaust. (You'll need a new gasket here). Pieced together the brake lines using Russell components. Used rubber tubing to determine the various lengths I needed.
I had a thread going on my swap. There may or may not be some useful info there for you.
In my case, the only thing that made it hard was operating on a tight timeline. Getting parts delivered when I needed them was the biggest problem.
In the end, it all came together and i couldn't be happier with the result. It's like having a new bike.
On my FLHTC, working around the batwing is always a bit of a pain. I've done a lot of electronics assembly, so soldering in the wiring extensions was no biggie. Had to lift the tank to get access to replace the throttle and idle cables (Be sure to ziptie then in place. Mine rattled like the devil until I figured that one out). Was able to get the cover off the trans by just loosening the exhaust. (You'll need a new gasket here). Pieced together the brake lines using Russell components. Used rubber tubing to determine the various lengths I needed.
Why will he need a new exhaust gasket??
I have re-used mine many times.
Edit: I get it now. You're talking about exhaust gaskets. I reused mine too. I'm talking about the gasket behind the trans cover.
Last edited by 0maha; Jul 28, 2016 at 07:35 PM.
Mine go between the pipes and the heads.
When I read your post the last thing in the sentence was about removing the exhaust and that's why I thought you were talking about exhaust gaskets.
FWIW I did reuse my tranny side cover gasket but the next time I was in there I installed a AFM gasket which you can re-use many times before they go bad.










