I want to put mini apes on my 97 wide glide. How much should it cost if I have someone else preform the work?

 

That depends a lot on how tall you are going from what you have.

A minor raise that doesn't require new cables, brake lines and wire extensions is way cheaper than a bigger raise that does require longer cables, brake lines and wire extensions.

 

If you do not need longer cables and wiring and don't mind external wiring it can be done in an hour ($90), new poly handlebar bushings would be highly recommended. If you need new cables, wiring extended and run internally you are looking at 8-9 hours labor plus parts. On average an ape job at my shop runs $1200; we have done them for closer to $1000 and some as much as $2000. It all depends on what you want parts wise....

 

That is crazy! I mean, I get it. Just for some reason I am in awe of how long it takes.

 

Mostly it depends on how fancy you want it to look.

Outside wiring of the handlebars is simple and quick. Internally wiring them is not.

Your Dyna may or may not be a pain to do based on wiring harnesses. Some Dynas go a lot further than others, so it will depend on models too.

New brake lines, installed and bled to work correctly takes a minute or two also..

Clutch cable replacing may require pulling the exhaust and also re-adjusting the clutch when done.

Lots of small, time consuming steps.

Griz

 

I don't doubt it.

 

If you are having somebody else do the work... Make sure that you buy bars that are already drilled and cut for internal wiring.

Its not rocket science to pop the holes in the right spot, but you'll save enough in labor to cover the difference... and not have bare steel rusting and flaking.

 

Around HDF there are regular posts, often from new members, asking why some of their electrics don't work, after they internal-wired new apes themselves. It's a job that requires great care and skill to do well, so they function reliably. Unfortunately there ain't no short cuts.....

 

It took me almost that long to swap handlebars on my bike, but that included drilling and slotting the bars for the internal wiring. Then again, I wasn't changing wire length, just internally wiring the bars. That said, it was still a tedious job, and although I am pleased with the results, I'd never do it again, so don't ask.


Since I was drilling stock Harley bars, there was no worry about flaking plating or rust. Stock Harley bars are stainless steel-bet you didn't know that. They are also harder than the hubs of Hades to drill a hole in.


If you have to extend the wiring, you're talking about splicing wires (remember to stagger the splices so they don't have to all fit through the holes at once), then crimp on new contacts and reinstall them in the connectors. Extending the brake line means bleeding the front brakes. A new clutch cable might mean pulling the exhaust (I can get by just by pulling the muffler and loosening the header nuts to get enough clearance to remove the lower screws in the transmission end cover). Don't forget draining and refilling the transmission.


You see, it all adds up.

 

This has me thinking...I WAS considering different shaped bars that didn't require longer an internal wiring....I HATE wiring work anyway, then hearing if you have a problem it's a pain to track down an fix...I may just go with new bars an external wiring...I like the clean look but my bike is by no means a show bike so it's prob not worth the trouble.