Help with charging system
Battery DCV x terminals = 13.52
Bike on, DCV x terminals = 12.70
Bike @ idle DCV x terminals = 12.69
Rev. to 2500 RPM = 12.94 (low beam)
Rev. to 2500 RPM = 12.89 (high beam)
Bike off, high beam on = 12.65
ACV Bike running = 27.2 .................. ??????
My meter's low setting on ACV is 200 and that is what I tested it on. I have not proceeded beyond the test results above. The 27.2 ACV seem significant and that would indicate a bad voltage regulator according to the sticky. Am I correct with my testing procedures, and do these readings indeed indicate a regulator in need of replacement? Also, would the 27.2 ACV running reading drain the battery while in operation causing the trickle charger to work longer?
Sorry if this seems obvious and elementary, diagnosing electrical troubles is not my forte.

Thanks for the sticky and any help/advice appreciated.
Battery V x terminals went from 13.52 to 13.03
Bike on, V x term. = 12.70 to 12.69
Bike @ idle, V x term. = 12.69 to 12.67
Rev. to 2500 RPM = 12.94 to 12.80 (low beam)
Rev. to 2500 RPM = 12.89 to 12.79 (high beam)
Bike off, headlight on = 12.65 to 12.62
ACV Bike running = 27.2 to 27.2
Service mgr. at the dealership said they would test the battery and dx. the problem for free tomorrow if I wanted to bring it in. I'll see what they say and get back, can't beat free.
The battery is 8 - 10 years old, Dr. Hess. Yes, I've got my money's worth out of that one.
My thinking is you had the meter on the battery terminals and switched from DC to AC and that's where you got the 27 volts AC? If so, your regulator diodes are no longer effectively converting AC current to DC current, so yes, the regulator is toast. If I made the wrong assumption, then disregard.
However, you need to check the stator AC Volts output at 1000 rpm, then at 2000, then again at 3000 and note the AC voltage at each of those rpm's. That is measured at the stator leads at the block where the voltage regulator would plug in.
Just trying to get all the details...YD
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Both Cycle Electric and Compu-fire make a "series" type regulator. It basically lowers the load on the stator as the electrical load decreases. In turn, the stator runs cooler and lives a longer life. Here is a great right up (link below) on what both types of regulators do and how they work. It's a long thread but pages 1 thru 4 give all the information. Page 1 demonstrates how a shunt regulator works with real world amp and voltage readings, and page 4 demonstrates how the series regulator works with real world amp and voltage readings. It's worth the read. Prices for either one are better than buying a shunt style from the dealer.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1648679
Good luck with whichever type you go with. FYI, when switching it out, make sure you get good connection at the block connector, that is a known trouble maker and if the connection is not clean and tight, it could give you other troubles. Also take the time to run the "charge" or hot wire all the way back to the circuit breaker terminal. Some guys cut it and splice, but, take the extra time to run the wire in the original location with no splices. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Oct 4, 2016 at 06:54 PM.







