WEGO 3 installation
Idle looks good at the end, working on spreading the graph out so it is more readable, need to change the view on the graph, notice zoom on the graph I posted, play around and get time frame viewable, it will spread that graph
The current graph is zoom, see next post for time frame
The current graph is zoom, see next post for time frame
Last edited by 1997bagger; Jan 26, 2019 at 11:59 PM.
Idle at end looks a lot better. Lot of 13.5's up 13.8 with a few 14.0's.
Saw a lot of 12.8's/ 13.0/some 12.3 around 2700-3200rpm. Best I can tell, still rich on crusing speeds.
One thing , I did to set my cruise afr's, was to ride to the Interstate, ( 3 miles from my house)head to the next town, (5 miles) at 3000rpm's, (70 mph), exit , turn around and do 3200rpm's,(80 mph) & head home. Highway was real flat & could get real good readings. If your riding hilly roads, gonna be richer going up grades & leaner when going down. Worked real well for me.
Then I picked another stretch of straight , flat highway , within a 30 minute window, & did a WOT run. A .25 sample rate gives you about a 30 min run.
More than enough time. Make sure the police are not out.
One other thing I always did was change one of the colors of either the air, or the fuel on the graph. Makes it a hell of a lot easier to read.
One other thing , try not to blip your throttle anymore than you have to. Makes undesireable spikes in the graph.
Ride Safe,
Harold
Saw a lot of 12.8's/ 13.0/some 12.3 around 2700-3200rpm. Best I can tell, still rich on crusing speeds.
One thing , I did to set my cruise afr's, was to ride to the Interstate, ( 3 miles from my house)head to the next town, (5 miles) at 3000rpm's, (70 mph), exit , turn around and do 3200rpm's,(80 mph) & head home. Highway was real flat & could get real good readings. If your riding hilly roads, gonna be richer going up grades & leaner when going down. Worked real well for me.
Then I picked another stretch of straight , flat highway , within a 30 minute window, & did a WOT run. A .25 sample rate gives you about a 30 min run.
More than enough time. Make sure the police are not out.
One other thing I always did was change one of the colors of either the air, or the fuel on the graph. Makes it a hell of a lot easier to read.
One other thing , try not to blip your throttle anymore than you have to. Makes undesireable spikes in the graph.
Ride Safe,
Harold
LowriderHarold thanks for looking at that, if I was to lower my needle one notch do you think that would improve the cruising afr? I did notice that it was a little on the rich side while I was riding. I have the mikuni air cleaner with the stock evo cover on it, if I was to remove it and run with no cover would that help? Thanks again.
CV carb: screw out=richer. Mikuni carb: screw out=leaner.
LowriderHarold thanks for looking at that, if I was to lower my needle one notch do you think that would improve the cruising afr? I did notice that it was a little on the rich side while I was riding. I have the mikuni air cleaner with the stock evo cover on it, if I was to remove it and run with no cover would that help? Thanks again.
Yeah, I would lower the needle, lean it out> I used these shims :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110604954027...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Gives you a finer adjustment on the needle & they work on a CV carb, also.
You need to do a WOT run, also as 1997bagger stated.
Ride Safe,
Harold
Thanks again, I will lower that needle in the morning and try to post another data log asap. While we're talking air cleaners, what do you think of those K&N forward facing cone style setups? Had a shop tell me they are hard to tune with.
Ok. I give up. For the life of me, I can't find the time frame feature.
Where do you go to display that? I don't remember using that.I even pulled up my last graph, & can't find it there, either.
Ride Safe,
Harold
Where do you go to display that? I don't remember using that.I even pulled up my last graph, & can't find it there, either.
Ride Safe,
Harold








