more 88-89 to 91 up transmission questions for fxr
couple things im looking for answers to...first for a whole transmission, 91 and up touring and fxr transmissions will work on a 88 fxr? then id just need to upgrade to a 91 clutch? or do I need new inner and outer primary covers too?
and will 91-up 6 speed builder kits work in 88 cases? and same thing, just need to upgrade the clutch to a 91? or is there more parts needed?
and will 91-up 6 speed builder kits work in 88 cases? and same thing, just need to upgrade the clutch to a 91? or is there more parts needed?
Not all 91 and later transmissions bolt into FXR frames. You need one without the integral oil sump unless you want to convert. I converted my '88 FXR but I'm not at all interested in restoration. Now I have room to work where the stock oil bag used to live. Eventually I'll expand the battery box to take advantage of the room.
94 and later are preferable. Bagger outer primaries don't have the FXR shifter shaft hole in the inspection cover but you can use your old inspection cover as I did. You need an FXR-specific inner primary, and the shifter shaft and sleeve etc. off your old setup. I used a Dyna shift arm for the longer throw and replace the "lawnmower parts" shift linkage with surplus aircraft rod ends off Fleabay. The short threaded rod and jam nuts between the stock ends should be reused with the new right and left handed Heim style rod ends.
I relocated the crossmember on my 1988 FXR and got rid of the bendy pitiful stock sidestand. I mounted an old style Jiffy stand to the front highway peg mount using quality cap and countersunk screws. (I also did my 1994 FXLR. The HD Jiffy is IMO the best sidestand design in motorcycling history.) The FXR highway peg mount only has two of three screws but mine held up to kicking when I had a kicker kit on the old trans. There's no structural or cosmetic visibility issues doing a crossmember mod but some originality fetishists lose their minds when it's suggested and emotionally conflate it with butchering a Panhead neck casting or something.
There is an aftermarket billet oil pan (which goes for what a stock titled FXR frame is worth!) if you want the bagger box without touching the crossmember. It's very pretty but I'm not autistic about having a stock frame with modified "everything else".
You REALLY want a Delkron inner primary if you can find one assuming you are keeping your FXR. They are out of stock at the moment. There are two part numbers so get the correct one for your transmission. Stock FXR inner primaries are prone to cracking so inspect thoroughly if you have to use one. I know of no other heavy duty FXR inner primary manufacturers.
Buy a parts book for the donor years you are interested in. Used books are reasonable on Ebay and the more you study the more ya learn.
There is plenty of frame mod info on the usual FXR forums, and a lot of it is from Twin Cam conversions but still applicable. The FXR frame is so versatile you can drop in anything from Shovelheads to Twinkies with minimal effort.
The transmission conversion is worth it for the excellent later Denso starter. Get an aftermarket pushbutton solenoid cover while you're at it. I've used a few and the pictured part is a casting that fits the stock rubber gasket properly. It's also like twenty bucks so ya can't go wrong. Note the way the button is made. A Google image search will show vendors.
By the time you buy a later stock clutch hub and a new clutch plate kit you may as well run a good aftermarket clutch. I ain't no racer so I defer to them on what to run. Stock works for what I do. pwmorris is a well known drag racer and his FXR advice in various fora is on point.
This is a good time to inspect your rubber drivetrain mounts and swingarm pivot hardware. 1988 was a long time ago...
You should install a new drive belt and pulleys when it's down that far.
You can take advantage of this to regear taller or lower depending on your preference. I like very tall gearing for cruising but suggesting it triggers some folks.
Check your PMs.
94 and later are preferable. Bagger outer primaries don't have the FXR shifter shaft hole in the inspection cover but you can use your old inspection cover as I did. You need an FXR-specific inner primary, and the shifter shaft and sleeve etc. off your old setup. I used a Dyna shift arm for the longer throw and replace the "lawnmower parts" shift linkage with surplus aircraft rod ends off Fleabay. The short threaded rod and jam nuts between the stock ends should be reused with the new right and left handed Heim style rod ends.
I relocated the crossmember on my 1988 FXR and got rid of the bendy pitiful stock sidestand. I mounted an old style Jiffy stand to the front highway peg mount using quality cap and countersunk screws. (I also did my 1994 FXLR. The HD Jiffy is IMO the best sidestand design in motorcycling history.) The FXR highway peg mount only has two of three screws but mine held up to kicking when I had a kicker kit on the old trans. There's no structural or cosmetic visibility issues doing a crossmember mod but some originality fetishists lose their minds when it's suggested and emotionally conflate it with butchering a Panhead neck casting or something.
There is an aftermarket billet oil pan (which goes for what a stock titled FXR frame is worth!) if you want the bagger box without touching the crossmember. It's very pretty but I'm not autistic about having a stock frame with modified "everything else".
You REALLY want a Delkron inner primary if you can find one assuming you are keeping your FXR. They are out of stock at the moment. There are two part numbers so get the correct one for your transmission. Stock FXR inner primaries are prone to cracking so inspect thoroughly if you have to use one. I know of no other heavy duty FXR inner primary manufacturers.
Buy a parts book for the donor years you are interested in. Used books are reasonable on Ebay and the more you study the more ya learn.
There is plenty of frame mod info on the usual FXR forums, and a lot of it is from Twin Cam conversions but still applicable. The FXR frame is so versatile you can drop in anything from Shovelheads to Twinkies with minimal effort.
The transmission conversion is worth it for the excellent later Denso starter. Get an aftermarket pushbutton solenoid cover while you're at it. I've used a few and the pictured part is a casting that fits the stock rubber gasket properly. It's also like twenty bucks so ya can't go wrong. Note the way the button is made. A Google image search will show vendors.
By the time you buy a later stock clutch hub and a new clutch plate kit you may as well run a good aftermarket clutch. I ain't no racer so I defer to them on what to run. Stock works for what I do. pwmorris is a well known drag racer and his FXR advice in various fora is on point.
This is a good time to inspect your rubber drivetrain mounts and swingarm pivot hardware. 1988 was a long time ago...
You should install a new drive belt and pulleys when it's down that far.
You can take advantage of this to regear taller or lower depending on your preference. I like very tall gearing for cruising but suggesting it triggers some folks.
Check your PMs.
Last edited by monckywrench; Apr 1, 2017 at 06:41 PM.
The later model year gearset will fit in the early case.
A later model year clutch will also be needed, 91-93 will be plug and play.
If you also want to upgrade to a later starter configuration, you will need to modify the transmission case (the hole where the starter goes needs to be opened up to a larger diameter) and get later model inner/outer primary covers.
A later model year clutch will also be needed, 91-93 will be plug and play.
If you also want to upgrade to a later starter configuration, you will need to modify the transmission case (the hole where the starter goes needs to be opened up to a larger diameter) and get later model inner/outer primary covers.
can I ask why you want to make the upgrade?
I just did this on my 88. everything changed in 89 as far as the starter is concerned. then in 90 they went to a splined mainshaft.
I bought a delkron case and put a new jims gearset in. -89 inner and outer primary. new starter jackshaft, new starter, brand new clutch (everything, including the hub was replaced). a lot of $$$ and a lot of work but I replaced my 80" with a 111 so it will need it.
I just did this on my 88. everything changed in 89 as far as the starter is concerned. then in 90 they went to a splined mainshaft.
I bought a delkron case and put a new jims gearset in. -89 inner and outer primary. new starter jackshaft, new starter, brand new clutch (everything, including the hub was replaced). a lot of $$$ and a lot of work but I replaced my 80" with a 111 so it will need it.
can I ask why you want to make the upgrade?
I just did this on my 88. everything changed in 89 as far as the starter is concerned. then in 90 they went to a splined mainshaft.
I bought a delkron case and put a new jims gearset in. -89 inner and outer primary. new starter jackshaft, new starter, brand new clutch (everything, including the hub was replaced). a lot of $$$ and a lot of work but I replaced my 80" with a 111 so it will need it.
I just did this on my 88. everything changed in 89 as far as the starter is concerned. then in 90 they went to a splined mainshaft.
I bought a delkron case and put a new jims gearset in. -89 inner and outer primary. new starter jackshaft, new starter, brand new clutch (everything, including the hub was replaced). a lot of $$$ and a lot of work but I replaced my 80" with a 111 so it will need it.
thats why im asking too! Thinking 111" myself
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nice. I haven't ridden mine yet but I won't regret the money spent once it's done.
My suggestions, take them as you will... though I did A TON of research and didn't buy any parts that didnt work or I didnt end up needing
- if your 5 speed is in good shape you can re-use your old gearset and replace the mainshaft with a splined mainshaft. you WILL need a new trans case as the starter jackshaft hole on your 88 is smaller diameter. Delkron makes a great case. as far as the delkron inner primary is concerned, they are discontinued indefinitely- I called delkron. no one has them. so you will have to live with an 89-93 inner primary. i went with a carlini torque arm on the right side to keep things rigid. the clutch on your 88 can't be re-used, the hub is probably cracked anyway. I bought a rivera primo setup with the 66 tooth ring gear. spyke starter and jackshaft. the jackshafts changed in 94 when they went to a different starter ring gear. I like the 66t. you can use any clutch basket/hub as far as I know, as long as it is splined and as long as your pinion gear and starter ring gear match. for example, I was going to use a clutch assembly from a 2003 flt and switch out the starter ring gear. you will have to get a clutch pack that matches your year clutch assembly.
feel free to ask any questions
My suggestions, take them as you will... though I did A TON of research and didn't buy any parts that didnt work or I didnt end up needing
- if your 5 speed is in good shape you can re-use your old gearset and replace the mainshaft with a splined mainshaft. you WILL need a new trans case as the starter jackshaft hole on your 88 is smaller diameter. Delkron makes a great case. as far as the delkron inner primary is concerned, they are discontinued indefinitely- I called delkron. no one has them. so you will have to live with an 89-93 inner primary. i went with a carlini torque arm on the right side to keep things rigid. the clutch on your 88 can't be re-used, the hub is probably cracked anyway. I bought a rivera primo setup with the 66 tooth ring gear. spyke starter and jackshaft. the jackshafts changed in 94 when they went to a different starter ring gear. I like the 66t. you can use any clutch basket/hub as far as I know, as long as it is splined and as long as your pinion gear and starter ring gear match. for example, I was going to use a clutch assembly from a 2003 flt and switch out the starter ring gear. you will have to get a clutch pack that matches your year clutch assembly.
feel free to ask any questions










