I have to rebuild the carb but not sure what I am going to need. I know a rebuild kit but not sure what else I need. Also need a recommendation on the rebuild kit.

 

What kind do you have?

 

Keihin CV carb. It the same one from factory

 

Ya think that might be important

WP

 

27505-98 is the carbs part #

 

I'd call the guys at CV Performance. At a minimum, you'll want to replace all the seals and other soft bits.

Is it acting up, or are you doing this "just because"?

 

That's why. Its been acting funny for a couple of weeks. First the needle valve was sticking letting gas to pour out. I cleaned it but in the process the float bowl gasket broke.

 

I got a kit on eBay the same stuff CVP sells cycle pro. It was dirt cheap and came with everything but the drain screw oring. They shipped it fast too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272232917918

 

This is a recommendation.

If you want to be assured of quality parts and knowledgeable support I recommend CV Performance. There's several things to consider. Take the carb all the way down and clean it good. Then replace what needs replacing. This would include: re-jet (if needed); float valve; gaskets; diaphragm(s) (one in the main body, one in the fuel/accelerator 'pump'; add easy-to-adjust Idle and Mixture adjust screws (optional); replace plastic inlet with brass.

You can probably get by without replacing some of the parts. When I did mine and had it apart, I replaced pretty much everything that was a 'wear' item (and then some) so I wouldn't have to go back in again for a long while.

I didn't have to do anything with my float. It was adjusted ok. But if yours has damage you can purchase another float, too.

Total cost on my parts was $179. I bought an 'extra' gasket kit I didn't need. Talk to the folks at CVP and tell them what you're trying to do and let them recommend what to order.

On the matter of the Idle and Mixture screws they sell, their stuff makes these adjustments super easy. That helps while you're dialing the carb in. BTW, if you replace the plastic inlet with a brass, make sure to clean the carb up good afterward (there will be some metal shavings subsequent, due to the process). I bought a 'tool' for removing the old inlet, on eBay. It was ten bucks shipped and included stuff you could source yourself at the hardware store for about 1/4 to 1/2 as much. It really helped remove the old inlet. The old one's plastic, but it has a metal base that's pressed in to the carb body. That's what the 'tool' does--facilitates removing this metal base.

Alan

 

Tip for removing the old inlet nipple: stuff it full of wheel bearing grease first. Thread it using a 1/4"-20 tap. Take a 1/4"-20 bolt, run it through a socket of appropriate size, using as many washers as needed to leave about 1/2" of bolt sticking out the bottom of the socket. Then thread it into the nipple you just tappedl, tighten the bolt, and it will pop right out.

The grease will catch any shavings that might otherwise get left behind.