I just bought a 1995 ultra classic and I was wondering if everyone still uses the factory suspension .I'm 6'5" about 420 and I will be doing a lot of solo riding . but the misses will ride from time to time and she is around 130. should I invest in a better suspension? from my understanding the bike is stock except for the Vance and Hines exhaust..

 

You may get varied responses about aftermarket springs and shocks and I'll leave those opinions to others. But the one thing that will add the most safety in handling would be to replace the swing arm bushings with a bearing conversion kit. They will eliminate the lateral movement (or wiggle) of the swing arm in relation to the frame in a curve, on a windy day or an uneven road, all of which has long been a matter of concern (and some danger) for those who ride Tour bikes. And I'm not talking about just curvy mountain roads, all road conditions.

Some "update" the swing arm to a later model, but that gets into a lot of parts required that aren't native to that year model. Do-able, but a lot of expense. Bearing kits are about $350. and aren't difficult to install.

 

what kit would you suggest

 

Very loaded question,since I have a V twin spherical bearing kit that replaces the rubber clevis blocks with RSB2540 bearing, but have not pulled the swing arm in the two years I have been running the kit to take a look at how well the spherical bushings themselves are holding up. If the bearings are worn out in just a few year of riding, may go to the derin bushing with SS inserts that I can make myself, or may go to one of the kits that runs two bearing per sides instead .
What is in play now.


The stock clevis type blocks that should be in the swing arm now, and what causes the flex of the rear axle to axle begin with.






Also, running a progressive touring link on the bike to prevent rear wobble in corners as well, but jury is still out on that one, since only getting less than a year on the spherical links before it wore out, and the replacement link that they sent me a few months ago to replace the first one, don't see lasting any longer. And yes, even with the spherical bearings in play, if you remove the touring link, you can feel in the increased rear end flex in the corners coming from the compression of the outer rubber mounts.


As for this style, have seen enough of the downward blades bent, to tell me I don't want to go with it.

 

As for suspension and your weight, not knowing the age on the forks, would rebuild them with a new fork seal/bushing kit ($60) and change over to 15weight fork oil at factory amounts. Hell, would even go as so far to talk to the guys at Race tech to see about getting new springs for all 4,since the factory fork/shock springing/fluid weight is for a 180lb rider, and your way the hell over that to start with.
The rear shock are the same as the older Honda gold wing shocks, and you can find many video on line on how to pull them apart to rebuild as well.


On the rear shocks, change their fluids with 12 weight oil with the same amount that comes out, and use the factory air pressure for when your single, or two up.

Hence stock fork oil is 10weight up front, rear shocks at 7weight, and bike is going to feel too marshmallow to start with/even worse with your weight, not matter now much air you add to either. Hence air is just to get the correct sag to begin with, and the fluid weight and spring rates will be how both dampen instead.

Note, too bad your not in the Denver area, since could have you come over to make short work of such, including getting the rear swing arm/engine back on tram since I have the factory alignment tools as well.

 

I have used the V-Twin version and it's OK. After 40k miles or so, it had about .040 play (at the adjuster end of the swing arm). I've since used the CCE kits and Dew Mfg kits which are identical and seem to have a higher quality bearing. On the V-Twin version the bearings are outboard in the swing arm. The other mentioned kit have the bearing inboard and when assembled, nothing swivels against the transmission housing or the rubber isolators.

There is an All ***** Bare Knuckles version that uses 4 sealed ball bearings and spacers that look to be super strong. Never tried that one but one member on here has and far as I know, it's working well. There is a Paugho kit that looks similar to the others, but I've never had one in hand and can't speak to the bearing orientation or quality.

The Delrin bushing versions I have a problem with, though have never used one. They will swivel on the pivot axle as well as rub against the transmission housing and rubber isolators and I think that would be a serious wear issue after some miles and time.

Regardless of which one you choose, getting the inner portion of the parts snug against both sides of the transmission is critical, otherwise you'll have wasted time and money. Also you will likely pick up a tiny bit of frame vibration over the factory rubber bushings but the massive improvement in handling will far out weigh that possibility. And use only brand new OEM swing arm isolators 47564-86B

So do your research and price shopping. Be careful if shopping on Amazon or eBay, as there are less expensive kits listed that may or may not match what you actually receive. Some kits are offered with or without a new axle which makes a big difference in price and replacing the original is seldom necessary.

https://www.fxrdivision.com/fxr/bare...ing-conversion

https://customcycleengineering.net/s...-retrofit-kit/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32490000931...4fe18cb51ad3c6

 

I've got a '96 RK I updated the suspension from an '08 Road Glide. Much better brakes. Google CCE for the upgrade kit for the swing arm bushings. I'm also running RaceTech single rate springs in the forks. Much better than the stock air/ spring set up to me. Got rid of the air shocks on the back as well.
Look into running a EV13 cam, lots of low end and plenty of top.