Anybody tell me the sounds that bad rocker arms or rocker arm bushings make when they go out? I've changed lifters, pushrods and there was no change. The ticking noise is coming from the front head and gets a lot worse when hot or its been heat soaking for a while. Ya I know about the loader pipes

 

I wouldn't think it would make a ticking sound it would make more of a piston slap noise. I know it's alot of work but maybe pull the rockers and measure the bushings for out of round and check the overall pin to bushing clearance. It should give the specs in the shop manual. Did you put the push rods in the right order, and are they adjustable push rods? Does the bike have alot of miles on it. Does it have proper oil pressure. If the oil pump is tired I would think the front cylinder would be affected the most because it is furthest away from the oil pump. I would also check to see that you don't have a oil galley that is partially obstructed with a foreign material. Hope this helps

 

Is it a tick or a harder "tackity tackity" sound? I mean, how loud does it get and does it come and go somewhat? Does it almost sound like the noise is coming out the front exhaust pipe?

 

It has adjustable push rods. I've cleaned the screen for the lifter supply and it only has 50k miles on it. Replaced the lifters (# diff sets) 2 sets of push rods. It runs good and pulls better then a couple of stockers I ride with. I'm putting a stronger spring in the pump and this weekend I thought I'd pull the rocker covers off and check it out.

It is coming from the rocker cover I can hear it using the screwdriver method and its a lot louder at the very top front of the rockerbox. Once it sat and heatsoaked, I fired it up and it was a lot louder. I have adjusted the lifters a lot of times and the sound doesn't get any better except when they are too tight...

 

I looked in my shop manual at the oiling system, and here's what I would try. If you are refurring to the front of the front cylinder pull the rocker shaft for that valve and make absolute sure that there is not a piece of foreign material blocking one of the passage ways. Clean every thing so you can eat off of it. Run a fine round brush through the center of the rocker shaft and blow it out with compressed air. Clean all parts with carb cleaner. Also measure the rocker arm bushings for out of round and inspect for excessive wear.Also pull the push tube and clean the center of it to make sure there is not any fine particles in there that will cause the problem to reoccur. Inspect everything for marks that would be caused by lack of oil. Hope this helps

 

Should have changed the rockers when you changed out the pushrods since the old ones were worn to the old pushrods (why you keep everything segregated so they match wear patterns); this could be causing the tick. Will also cause accelerated wear to the new pushrods, too. Try checking the pushrod adjustment since an oil pump problem would be affecting everything else and you'd have all tappets sounding the same or you'd be hearing some real bad noises by now in other places such as main crank bearing. Of course, I'm arm-chairing it. To check the tappet adjustment, raise the rear wheel off the ground and, with transmission in fourth gear, turn the wheel until the front tappets are at their lowest point (the heel of cam). Check pushrod for zero clearance by spinning freely using your fingers (a good rule of thumb is to spin the pushrod with your finger and the pushrod should spin 3/4 of a rotation on all pushrods to be equal) with no up & down lash. If they're set, check the rear the same way. If they need adjustment, lenghten pushrods out .100" (number of rotations depends on pushrod kit installed but from 2.5 to 4 turns). Allow 10 minutes for tappets to bleed down. Collapse pushrod by turning adjustment screw clockwise (as viewed from the bottom) until there is noticeable lash or free-play. Turn adjuster to lengthen it until zero clearance exists but pushrod turns with no drag and up & down shake and spin as described above. Tighten adjuster locknut and recheck for spin/lash. Wait another ten minutes to allow tappet bleed and turn rear wheel until next set of tappets are at their lowest and repeat the above procedure. All tappets should be adjusted the same now. Wait ten minutes before starting as a safety margin. Should be all quiet now!

 

RED98ROADKING
I see you're sorta new here. Look at the top right of the page where your screen name is and you'll see I sent you a private message.

 

What do the rocker shafts look like ? When my bike made rattling sounds I found the shafts to be pretty worn. Pretty cheap and easy to fix yourself.